I changed my brake pads, yet still the brakes don't work. What now?

I changed my thirty-two year old brake pads and yet still the brakes don't lock the wheel up. Could it be some sort of contamination on the wheel? I have recently cleaned my rims - using soap on the back one. What should I do now?
I changed my brake pads, yet still the brakes don't work. What now?
Chrome rims will never allow the brakes to work that well. Especially in the rain. If your pads are fresh, your calipers %26amp; levers work smoothly and the cables are well lubed - you did all you can do. These older bikes never had good brakes to begin with. I remember taking my sister's SA 3 speed %26quot;English Racer%26quot; out in the rain - it'd take me a block to slow down.
I changed my brake pads, yet still the brakes don't work. What now?
Take it out on the Expressway and open it up to make sure they don't work!!!



or better yet a crowded Mountain pass!



No. Have a Pro do it. You have Brake Pump Pressure unit problems.



Very likely the seal around the cylinder is eaten away and needs to be replaced so you are getting no Brake Pressure in the Master Cylinder.
hey, i used to work for halfords as a bike specialist!

first of all clean the rims with mentholated spirits but don't get it on the Tyre!!!!

also consider the age of the bike, not all brakes are designed to work the same way, e.g bmx brakes are only designed to slow you down!

you might want to change the cables! or Aline the pads! you do this by the two small screws on the brake arm!

if you think this is to compacted take it to halfords or a bike shop, they will only charge about 拢10 for a brake service!



hope all goes well.
Steel rims have always been problematic for braking surfaces despite constant efforts at changing the surface texture, finish, etc. because steel rims tend to flex and reduce braking efficiency.



To make matters worse, many steel rimmed bikes have stamped steel brake calipers which ALSO flex as the brakes are applied making it almost impossible to stop let alone skid.



So, assuming you don't want to change the rims to alloy, your next cheapest option is to find some alloy brake calipers, and add metal brake levers (if you don't have them) and some good cables and housings. This will improve braking but probably not to the point of being able to lock up the wheels. Sorry.
BMX brakes aren't meant to stop you, just slow you down? What rubbish! Just because you can't adjust them properly doesn't mean that they're meant not to work. Halfords specialist eh? Figures.



Anyway.....



What are the cables like? You could be suffering from cable stretch or the housings may have expanded so that when you pull the lever, all that's happening is that the cable and housing get compressed, rather than the effort being applied to the brake. I'm assuming you have something like a Raleigh 20, and the brakes should be adequate - they won't be brilliant, but they should stop you in the dry without too much trauma.



Also - are the pads you've bought compatible with steel rims? Most are but some may be alloy only.
In addition to some of the good advice here are more tips:



Clean the rims with simple green. Then apply more and allow to air dry. It will make the pads stick better.



Also, try Odyssey 1x4 brake pads.



And before you install the new pads, boil them to remove the wax that's on them from the mold they were formed in. Just remember to use a disposable pan. Don't reuse it!
Silly sausage. You should be pressing the middle pedal.
Get a car!
Remind me... never to ask you anything mechanical.