I am thinking about changing my brake pads on my 2000 Honda Accord. When I was researching on how to change brake pads, I saw to be careful when changing brake pads on older cars because of asbestos in brake pads. I became a little hesitant because I thought that asbestos brakes are not used anymore here in the US.
Should I be concerned with asbestos in my 2000 Honda Accord brake pads (both front and rear are disc brakes)? Also, is my car considered %26quot;older%26quot; when it comes to asbestos brake pads?|||your car is not that old, no need to be concerned about brake dust, you can hose off your brakes once you get the car in the air and get the wheels off let them dry and do your thing|||asbestos is a thing of the past in terms of brakes. you should be fine, any dust inhaltion is bad though. if in doubt wear a mask and gloves . but its fine i can assure you|||They are talking about like pre 1992.
Sunday 5 June 2011
Should I open the brake reservoir when changing disc brakes pads?
Sometimes I do, sometimes I forget. Never had a problem. But I%26#039;m doing front and back on two cars this weekend and wonder the correct way.
While swapping out disc brakes, should I open the brake fluid reservoir?
I think the type of car is irrelevant, but they are a 99 Chrysler LHS and an %26#039;03 Audi Quattro.
Thanks!|||Yes, if you want to facilitate you piston retraction, and no, if you%26#039;re afraid that you%26#039;ll forget to put the cover back...|||yes so there wont be any back pressure when you push the piston back in|||on newer models the cap is vented so it%26#039;s not nessesary unless somebody thought it was a good idea to add fluid to there resivore instead of replacing pads(bad idea) then you want to remove the cap so the extra fluid can make it to there firewall and floor easier
While swapping out disc brakes, should I open the brake fluid reservoir?
I think the type of car is irrelevant, but they are a 99 Chrysler LHS and an %26#039;03 Audi Quattro.
Thanks!|||Yes, if you want to facilitate you piston retraction, and no, if you%26#039;re afraid that you%26#039;ll forget to put the cover back...|||yes so there wont be any back pressure when you push the piston back in|||on newer models the cap is vented so it%26#039;s not nessesary unless somebody thought it was a good idea to add fluid to there resivore instead of replacing pads(bad idea) then you want to remove the cap so the extra fluid can make it to there firewall and floor easier
Changing brake pads on 6 cyl. 93 Chevy Lumina?
Trying to change the back brakes (pads) on my 6 cyl. 93 Chevy Lumina - Having no problem with the bottom Bolt using a ratchet but the top bolt won%26#039;t budge! Can%26#039;t fit the ratchet in with the space I have so using a wrench with leverage bar and I don%26#039;t want to strip it. WD-40 won%26#039;t loosen it.......Any suggestions?
Thanks in advance ;o)|||If you are just changing the brake pads, you can get that top caliper bolt with a deep well socket. If you are removing the caliper bracket, you will need a T-60 Torx socket, and alot of strength. They use Lok-Tite on those threads from the factory, due to a TSB on 1988 to 1992 models%26#039; Torx bolt coming loose. When I worked in a shop, we would heat up that caliper bracket where the bolt goes through the steering knuckle, and put a 2 foot long pipe on the ratchet. You may also want to turn the wheel all the way out. That will give you more access to get the leverage with the long bar on the ratchet. Good luck.|||maybe you should get a mechanic for now, it might be rusty or something weird. perhaps getting a new bolt and try to cut that one with one of them hardcore machines... :?|||try tapping the caliper with a hammer while trying to loosen|||Torch is the next typical tool. Don%26#039;t catch anything on fire. After heating it up real hot put some ice on it.
All you are doing is causing it to expand and contract so things will break free... and they usualy do. Just be safe with the fire.|||Go to the Auto store and buy some PBlaster.|||yea try soaking the bolt with wd40 for a while keep spraying every so often good luck you dont want to strip or even brake the spoke which happened to me|||Don%26#039;t use WD-40, it%26#039;s a degreaser you need to keep that Hi-temperature grease around your brakes, but if you have some to replace it, it%26#039;s fine. Try getting a C-clamp and clamping down tight with one end on the back of the caliper and one end on the front of the brake pad, that usually does it for me.|||try heating the base of it with a torch
try not to melt the rubbers
Thanks in advance ;o)|||If you are just changing the brake pads, you can get that top caliper bolt with a deep well socket. If you are removing the caliper bracket, you will need a T-60 Torx socket, and alot of strength. They use Lok-Tite on those threads from the factory, due to a TSB on 1988 to 1992 models%26#039; Torx bolt coming loose. When I worked in a shop, we would heat up that caliper bracket where the bolt goes through the steering knuckle, and put a 2 foot long pipe on the ratchet. You may also want to turn the wheel all the way out. That will give you more access to get the leverage with the long bar on the ratchet. Good luck.|||maybe you should get a mechanic for now, it might be rusty or something weird. perhaps getting a new bolt and try to cut that one with one of them hardcore machines... :?|||try tapping the caliper with a hammer while trying to loosen|||Torch is the next typical tool. Don%26#039;t catch anything on fire. After heating it up real hot put some ice on it.
All you are doing is causing it to expand and contract so things will break free... and they usualy do. Just be safe with the fire.|||Go to the Auto store and buy some PBlaster.|||yea try soaking the bolt with wd40 for a while keep spraying every so often good luck you dont want to strip or even brake the spoke which happened to me|||Don%26#039;t use WD-40, it%26#039;s a degreaser you need to keep that Hi-temperature grease around your brakes, but if you have some to replace it, it%26#039;s fine. Try getting a C-clamp and clamping down tight with one end on the back of the caliper and one end on the front of the brake pad, that usually does it for me.|||try heating the base of it with a torch
try not to melt the rubbers
Is it possible and recommended for me to change brake pads in my car?
On a scale of 1 to 10, 1 been the easiest. How would you rate changing brake pad?|||It%26#039;s not hard to change the brake pads and you%26#039;ll be suprised at how cheap it is. Get a repair manual that will show you step by step how to change the pads. Then, make sure you have all the tools needed to do the job. Most brakes are 2-5, and usually more difficult the first time you do it, getting easier as you do it more frequently. Correct Tools and the manual will make it much easier.|||Replacing the break pads is little bit difficult job
you will be require the proper tools and knowledge of the break system
If you don鈥檛 have work knowledge and experience it is recommended that don鈥檛 change it
Take your vehicle to the nearest service station|||3 at the most,its easy if u have any mechanical aptitude. the first times the hardest|||I would give it a 1. As long as no bolts break you shouldn%26#039;t have a problem. I have never taken a car in for a brake change, and I am far from being a mechanic. I would recommend doing one side at a time. This way if you do forget how to put it back together then just look at another brake. Very easy to do, make sure you pump your pedal back up before driving.|||Yes its possible but the first time I would recommend you have someone with you who has done it before. 8-9 on your own, first time with someone who knows what they are doing 3-4, if they do it for you 1.|||If you have the right tools, a 5. You need jack stands as well.|||what is the meake model and year of this vehicle|||Jeffery hit the nail on the head. You may hear some people throw %26quot;scare tactics%26quot; at you such as your life depends in doing the job correctly, think for a moment who taught them! Any car specific service manual explains the entire procedure.
Go to your public library and sign out Chilton%26#039;s or Motors Manuals. Look for your specific car as they have the best reading and picture information. You may need a few tools, metric sockets and a large C clamp to compress the caliper pistons. Borrow or buy one or the other of the following: A vernier caliper or a 0%26quot; - 1%26quot; micrometer.
Call any any automotive brake rotor sales counter to find minimum thickness of your rotors. If your rotor thickness is within .025 of minimum toss them in the scrap can. If you plan on keeping your car for 2 yrs or more do not buy %26quot;off shore%26quot; cheap Chinese brake rotors. The quality of the metallurgy and annealing cycle is well below rotors made in the US. or Canada. If you have a light weight car consider organic pads such as EBC Green Stuff. Your rotors will never wear out and brake dust is pretty much nonexistent. Ceramic pads last longer but tend to wear rotors more agressively than organics. Forget semi-metallic or full metallic pads as they eat brake rotors to death. At 40,000 miles with metallics rotor wear is cooked. Look at an example: Toyota automobiles from the factory have organic pads. It%26#039;s not unusual to see 60 - 80,000 mile life with these pads.
Always apply CRC Brake Quiet ( liquid high temp. silicone) on the back steel side of your pads. This step prevents brake squeal. It%26#039;s avalible at any NAPA store. * Very important* -pick up 4 packets of high temp calper slider pin grease. The manual shows where and how to use it. Good luck with your project!|||If you have confidence in yourself go ahead and try it, I%26#039;m sure you can find someone to bail you out if you run into trouble, I would say it%26#039;s a 3 on the scale, by rights you should take the rotors off and have them turned by an autoparts store to do the job right, once you do the job you will see how easy it is.|||depends on your mechanical skills and car frt or rr brakes i would say 3 to 6|||its not really that hard to do id say a 4|||it depends on the year, make and ,model. do you all the right tools? you should be prepared to replace or resurface rotors. you%26#039;ll be working with the caliper as well. if your mechanically inclined go for it. if not find a good mechanic.|||it depends on what kind of car your talking about.some are harder then others,but ill say,by not knowing what car your talking about,about a 8.|||it is possible, why pay a garage loads of money to do it. it tells you how to do it in a haynes manual for your type of car. if you dont mind getting dirty, do it yourself.
you will be require the proper tools and knowledge of the break system
If you don鈥檛 have work knowledge and experience it is recommended that don鈥檛 change it
Take your vehicle to the nearest service station|||3 at the most,its easy if u have any mechanical aptitude. the first times the hardest|||I would give it a 1. As long as no bolts break you shouldn%26#039;t have a problem. I have never taken a car in for a brake change, and I am far from being a mechanic. I would recommend doing one side at a time. This way if you do forget how to put it back together then just look at another brake. Very easy to do, make sure you pump your pedal back up before driving.|||Yes its possible but the first time I would recommend you have someone with you who has done it before. 8-9 on your own, first time with someone who knows what they are doing 3-4, if they do it for you 1.|||If you have the right tools, a 5. You need jack stands as well.|||what is the meake model and year of this vehicle|||Jeffery hit the nail on the head. You may hear some people throw %26quot;scare tactics%26quot; at you such as your life depends in doing the job correctly, think for a moment who taught them! Any car specific service manual explains the entire procedure.
Go to your public library and sign out Chilton%26#039;s or Motors Manuals. Look for your specific car as they have the best reading and picture information. You may need a few tools, metric sockets and a large C clamp to compress the caliper pistons. Borrow or buy one or the other of the following: A vernier caliper or a 0%26quot; - 1%26quot; micrometer.
Call any any automotive brake rotor sales counter to find minimum thickness of your rotors. If your rotor thickness is within .025 of minimum toss them in the scrap can. If you plan on keeping your car for 2 yrs or more do not buy %26quot;off shore%26quot; cheap Chinese brake rotors. The quality of the metallurgy and annealing cycle is well below rotors made in the US. or Canada. If you have a light weight car consider organic pads such as EBC Green Stuff. Your rotors will never wear out and brake dust is pretty much nonexistent. Ceramic pads last longer but tend to wear rotors more agressively than organics. Forget semi-metallic or full metallic pads as they eat brake rotors to death. At 40,000 miles with metallics rotor wear is cooked. Look at an example: Toyota automobiles from the factory have organic pads. It%26#039;s not unusual to see 60 - 80,000 mile life with these pads.
Always apply CRC Brake Quiet ( liquid high temp. silicone) on the back steel side of your pads. This step prevents brake squeal. It%26#039;s avalible at any NAPA store. * Very important* -pick up 4 packets of high temp calper slider pin grease. The manual shows where and how to use it. Good luck with your project!|||If you have confidence in yourself go ahead and try it, I%26#039;m sure you can find someone to bail you out if you run into trouble, I would say it%26#039;s a 3 on the scale, by rights you should take the rotors off and have them turned by an autoparts store to do the job right, once you do the job you will see how easy it is.|||depends on your mechanical skills and car frt or rr brakes i would say 3 to 6|||its not really that hard to do id say a 4|||it depends on the year, make and ,model. do you all the right tools? you should be prepared to replace or resurface rotors. you%26#039;ll be working with the caliper as well. if your mechanically inclined go for it. if not find a good mechanic.|||it depends on what kind of car your talking about.some are harder then others,but ill say,by not knowing what car your talking about,about a 8.|||it is possible, why pay a garage loads of money to do it. it tells you how to do it in a haynes manual for your type of car. if you dont mind getting dirty, do it yourself.
Changing brake pads on a 1991 laser i gopt the brakes off and the disc/rotar thing was loose?
and just came off how does the rotar go back on without being loose or is it ok just to put back on||| This is normal,when you reinstall the pad%26#039;s just push it back into place
install the pad%26#039;s the wheel,AKA the rim is what holds the rotor%26#039;s in place when you tighten the lug nut%26#039;s. Good luck.|||Put it back on just like you took it off. Tip when you go to put the new shoes on you will need a C clamp to help you push the piston in make sure that the piston goes as far as it can go. Then put back on rotor tighten the two bolts. then do the same to the other side. when don check your break fluid. top off if needed.|||The rotor is held on by the wheel when it is put back on and the combination of the brake pads and caliper. your ok no problems that i see.
have fun and tighten everything and use antiseize on all sliders.|||the rotor in some cars is held on by two little screws on others its held in place by the tire rim and bolts
no worrys just slap it on there but wait did you get them resurfaced you should since you replaced the pads..|||I think on those cars the lug nuts hold everything together everything should be fine|||It%26#039;s supposed to be loose.. The caliper and pads hold it tight along with your wheel being pressed against it.|||your caliper holds the rotor on, on some cars, best thing to do is look in the maintenance manual hope that helps,
install the pad%26#039;s the wheel,AKA the rim is what holds the rotor%26#039;s in place when you tighten the lug nut%26#039;s. Good luck.|||Put it back on just like you took it off. Tip when you go to put the new shoes on you will need a C clamp to help you push the piston in make sure that the piston goes as far as it can go. Then put back on rotor tighten the two bolts. then do the same to the other side. when don check your break fluid. top off if needed.|||The rotor is held on by the wheel when it is put back on and the combination of the brake pads and caliper. your ok no problems that i see.
have fun and tighten everything and use antiseize on all sliders.|||the rotor in some cars is held on by two little screws on others its held in place by the tire rim and bolts
no worrys just slap it on there but wait did you get them resurfaced you should since you replaced the pads..|||I think on those cars the lug nuts hold everything together everything should be fine|||It%26#039;s supposed to be loose.. The caliper and pads hold it tight along with your wheel being pressed against it.|||your caliper holds the rotor on, on some cars, best thing to do is look in the maintenance manual hope that helps,
Changing the back brake pads on a BMW 318i 1999 E46?
i need to change the back brake pads on my car, how easy is it to do and how do u do it?|||BMWs have used 4 wheel disc brakes since at least 1985, so you don%26#039;t need to worry about all that stuff concerning drums and shoes. It will be the same as the front, with one small exception. On some cars when replacing rear pads, you need to screw the caliper piston back in. You will need a special tool for this, but any auto parts store will let you rent or borrow one. You cannot just squeeze it back in like the fronts.
The only drum and shoes you will find are if you want to replace or check the parking brake. The rear disc comes off and inside of it is the drum and shoes for the parking brake.|||if you have the right tools and are mechanically minded, then it is not too bad a job to do.you need to jack the car up,(ensure you use axle stands for safety),remove the wheel.you will see one or two screws holding the drum on. remove these and take the drum off.if it wont come off,tap all round it gently with a hammer and this should release it.when drum is off,take the large spring out of the hole at the top of the brake shoe.repeat with the lower spring,noting which way they are inserted.also note how the fork is situated between the opposing shoes(a piece of metal at the bottom of the brake shoes).you will see two small metal cups with springs below them in the middle of each shoe.use a pair of pliers to push these in and twist to remove them,careful not to lose them.prise the shoes out of the piston grooves at the top of the hub,and lift them out of the bottom grooves.replacement is the opposite. if you don%26#039;t fancy this yourself, go to a garage.brakes will feel slightly spongy for a while afterwards, this is normal till the shoes %26#039;bed in %26#039;properly. hope this helps.|||There is no special tool used to push the caliper pistons back in to the caliper as noted. They are the same as the front. you need a 7 mm allen key to remove the sliders and a pair of mulitgrips to push the piston in, a large flat blade screw driver to remove the anti rattle clip. Dont forget to change the pad wear sensor as well of the dash lamp will not go out.
The only drum and shoes you will find are if you want to replace or check the parking brake. The rear disc comes off and inside of it is the drum and shoes for the parking brake.|||if you have the right tools and are mechanically minded, then it is not too bad a job to do.you need to jack the car up,(ensure you use axle stands for safety),remove the wheel.you will see one or two screws holding the drum on. remove these and take the drum off.if it wont come off,tap all round it gently with a hammer and this should release it.when drum is off,take the large spring out of the hole at the top of the brake shoe.repeat with the lower spring,noting which way they are inserted.also note how the fork is situated between the opposing shoes(a piece of metal at the bottom of the brake shoes).you will see two small metal cups with springs below them in the middle of each shoe.use a pair of pliers to push these in and twist to remove them,careful not to lose them.prise the shoes out of the piston grooves at the top of the hub,and lift them out of the bottom grooves.replacement is the opposite. if you don%26#039;t fancy this yourself, go to a garage.brakes will feel slightly spongy for a while afterwards, this is normal till the shoes %26#039;bed in %26#039;properly. hope this helps.|||There is no special tool used to push the caliper pistons back in to the caliper as noted. They are the same as the front. you need a 7 mm allen key to remove the sliders and a pair of mulitgrips to push the piston in, a large flat blade screw driver to remove the anti rattle clip. Dont forget to change the pad wear sensor as well of the dash lamp will not go out.
Step by step instructions for changing brake pads on a 2002 ford taurus?
Just like changing the brakes on any other car.|||Step ! Drive it to a brakeshop and let them do it.
Step 2 Refer to step 1.|||jack the car up on all 4 cornrers and set jackstands underneath each corner. remove tires. do the next 5 steps four times and your done. use allen wrench to remove caliper. remove pads. reset caliper. install new pads. replace caliper.
Step 2 Refer to step 1.|||jack the car up on all 4 cornrers and set jackstands underneath each corner. remove tires. do the next 5 steps four times and your done. use allen wrench to remove caliper. remove pads. reset caliper. install new pads. replace caliper.
What should changing brake pads cost?
We live in south texas and were told that replacing brake pads would cost over $200. It sounds very high to me. What should the average brake replacement cost.|||See post below for cost estimates|||It really depends on the labor rate and what all your doing while replacing the brake pads. If your just replacing pads the labor would be a hour or just under that depends on the car or truck, if your having the rotors machined it would be more. The pads it depends on where you buy them and what grade you choose such as mid or premium. I usually charge $50 labor and pads range $30-$70 cost.
While changing the brake pads, i unscrew the rear pistons all the way, and now my brakes wont work, help pleas?
i accidentally unscrewed the rear brake pistons and fluid leaked, but i managed to screw it back in and put new pads, but i was done, i went to pump my brakes, the pressure seems to be escaping and when i drive, i%26#039;ve to floor the brake pedal for the car to stop. even then its tough . help please.
|||You need to bleed the air out of the calipers, and hopefully you hadn%26#039;t done more damage to them when you had put them back together.|||you accidentally destroyed the caliper it needs to be replaced. sorry|||replace your calipers|||rear caliper needs to be replaced and bleed|||You%26#039;ve let air into the brake system.You will have to bleed the brakes.Simple procedure:with engine off,have someone pump the brake pedal until it won%26#039;t move,hold down pedal,you unscrew that screw again[bleeder screw]until the pedal drops to the floor.Repeat for all four tires.You may have to bleed the same brake twice. What you are looking for is fluid to come out of bleeder screw. After bleeding all brakes,check brake fluid level,top off[dot 3 or4]restart engine ,pump brakes,check for pedal pressure.Road test,slowly.|||I think you lost brake pressure due to a tear in the caliper boot. You can try to bleed like the last answer, just make sure you start at the caliper that is furthest away from the master cylinder(where you pour in the fluid). He%26#039;s right, make sure you keep the reservoir full while bleeding. Look for air bubbles while bleeding. A constant stream of fluid is what you are looking for. Good luck. |||you have damaged the caliper seal... time to get them rekitted at local brake shop...ps stop driving it...
|||You need to bleed the air out of the calipers, and hopefully you hadn%26#039;t done more damage to them when you had put them back together.|||you accidentally destroyed the caliper it needs to be replaced. sorry|||replace your calipers|||rear caliper needs to be replaced and bleed|||You%26#039;ve let air into the brake system.You will have to bleed the brakes.Simple procedure:with engine off,have someone pump the brake pedal until it won%26#039;t move,hold down pedal,you unscrew that screw again[bleeder screw]until the pedal drops to the floor.Repeat for all four tires.You may have to bleed the same brake twice. What you are looking for is fluid to come out of bleeder screw. After bleeding all brakes,check brake fluid level,top off[dot 3 or4]restart engine ,pump brakes,check for pedal pressure.Road test,slowly.|||I think you lost brake pressure due to a tear in the caliper boot. You can try to bleed like the last answer, just make sure you start at the caliper that is furthest away from the master cylinder(where you pour in the fluid). He%26#039;s right, make sure you keep the reservoir full while bleeding. Look for air bubbles while bleeding. A constant stream of fluid is what you are looking for. Good luck. |||you have damaged the caliper seal... time to get them rekitted at local brake shop...ps stop driving it...
Do I need to change brake pad hardware when I replace the pads?
I have a 2005 Nissan Altima with 63000 miles on it. I need to do my first brake job on this car, and plan on changing the front brake pads and resurfacing the front brake rotors. I was wondering if I should put new brake pad hardware in while I鈥檓 at it.|||well when you get new brake pads you should get in the same package a couple metal clips, this is the only %26quot;hardware%26quot; i know of that exists on disk brake systems|||It may not be a big difference in price to just buy new rotors, but as far as your brake question, all you need to do is get brake cleaner and spray it on rotors and wipe them down with a clean cloth and just put your pads on. This will take care of any squeaks. There is no need to replace anything other than pads and rotors.|||The rotors will not need to be replaced unless they are grooved.
By hardware do you nuts,bolts and springs, probably not needed or they would be in the pad kit.|||It is recommended in order to reduce brake noise/squeal/squeak.
Not doing it will not hurt the brakes.
By hardware do you nuts,bolts and springs, probably not needed or they would be in the pad kit.|||It is recommended in order to reduce brake noise/squeal/squeak.
Not doing it will not hurt the brakes.
The brakes locked up while changing the brake pads on a 2000 Tiburon?
How do I unlock them?|||You provide little detail, but try this:
Bleed the blocked calipers one by one, they should unlock.
Check that the pistons move freely in and out; if not, check the rubber seals for damage and replace accordingly.
If they just stuck, a drop or two of brake fluid (do not use other lubricants) on piston sliding surfaces might help restore normal operation.
After fixing and before fitting the wheels, depress vigorously the brake pedal several times and check that the rotors are braked and rotate freely after releasing (slight contact with pads is normal).
hth
Bleed the blocked calipers one by one, they should unlock.
Check that the pistons move freely in and out; if not, check the rubber seals for damage and replace accordingly.
If they just stuck, a drop or two of brake fluid (do not use other lubricants) on piston sliding surfaces might help restore normal operation.
After fixing and before fitting the wheels, depress vigorously the brake pedal several times and check that the rotors are braked and rotate freely after releasing (slight contact with pads is normal).
hth
How much does it cost to resurface the brake router and change brake pads?
of the rear brakes
also, in order to resurface the brake routers, is changing the brake pads necessary?
car is VW|||First, check and see if this VW has four-wheel disc brakes. If it%26#039;s like most vehicles, the rear brakes are drum, and there are no rotors (not %26#039;router%26#039;), or brake pads, instead there are brake shoes.
I just had new rotors put on the front of my 1996 Ford Explorer. I have my work done at Midas, been going there for years and the shop manager takes good care of us and our vehicles. A new rotor is $90 and the cost of installing it plus the new pads (new pads are always free after the first Midas brake job) and adjusting the calipers was $55. Resurfacing a rotor might cost half as much as replacing it, but sometimes they are too corroded to have much material left after resurfacing and it%26#039;s wasted money.
As it was explained to me, pad wear mirrors rotor wear. If you resurface or replace a rotor, new pads are generally a good idea.
Drum work is a little different, and cheaper, than disc. Check and see if you have rear drum brakes, and if you do, I bet you can get new shoes put on for less than $100.
If you%26#039;ve got disc all the way around and it%26#039;s a VW (import parts are usually more than US), I wouldn%26#039;t be surprised to see a complete job with new rotors and pads plus installation set you back $800.|||changing the pads is extemly important. you will ruin the rotors if you dont replace them plus they are very cheap. also in my past experiences it is just as cheap to replace the rotors then turn them plus you dont have to worry about warpage and a warranty comes with the new one the turned ones get no warranty.at auto zone the prices range up and down but for a 1996 vw jetta with a 6 cyl the rotors that are the cheapes with a 2 year warranty are 18.99 and the pads are the cheapest ones with a limmited lifetime warranty and they are 24.99 so it is very cheap these are general prices for front pads and rotors. if you supplied info on your car like make modle and year i coulda gave more accurate prices.i did all four brakes on my jeep myself for around 150.00 and this is with all new parts and it is very easy if you need help grab a haynes repair manual at auto zone, there like 12.00 and explain it in great detail.|||Yes you need new pads. If you don%26#039;t replace these, then you just threw a bunch of money away.
Ball park, a good price would be about 80 US dollars an axle to get the brakes done. Provided the mechanic does not find something else wrong. This would be a %26quot;Promotional Price%26quot;, you know, a Midas special.
A reputable shop will be more, because they don%26#039;t have to give promotional prices to get customers to bring cars in for service. Some shops are so good they don%26#039;t try to sell you a part like a caliper that you do not need. Hope you can find one of these. The job estimate is always right or less.
While %26quot;Promotional Priced%26quot; repairs very seldom get out the door for less and most likely they will cost a lot more before it is over.|||do no resurface you brake router. leave your brake router alone. and since it is a vw im going to recommend trading it in for something that isnt a complete pile of sh*t
also, in order to resurface the brake routers, is changing the brake pads necessary?
car is VW|||First, check and see if this VW has four-wheel disc brakes. If it%26#039;s like most vehicles, the rear brakes are drum, and there are no rotors (not %26#039;router%26#039;), or brake pads, instead there are brake shoes.
I just had new rotors put on the front of my 1996 Ford Explorer. I have my work done at Midas, been going there for years and the shop manager takes good care of us and our vehicles. A new rotor is $90 and the cost of installing it plus the new pads (new pads are always free after the first Midas brake job) and adjusting the calipers was $55. Resurfacing a rotor might cost half as much as replacing it, but sometimes they are too corroded to have much material left after resurfacing and it%26#039;s wasted money.
As it was explained to me, pad wear mirrors rotor wear. If you resurface or replace a rotor, new pads are generally a good idea.
Drum work is a little different, and cheaper, than disc. Check and see if you have rear drum brakes, and if you do, I bet you can get new shoes put on for less than $100.
If you%26#039;ve got disc all the way around and it%26#039;s a VW (import parts are usually more than US), I wouldn%26#039;t be surprised to see a complete job with new rotors and pads plus installation set you back $800.|||changing the pads is extemly important. you will ruin the rotors if you dont replace them plus they are very cheap. also in my past experiences it is just as cheap to replace the rotors then turn them plus you dont have to worry about warpage and a warranty comes with the new one the turned ones get no warranty.at auto zone the prices range up and down but for a 1996 vw jetta with a 6 cyl the rotors that are the cheapes with a 2 year warranty are 18.99 and the pads are the cheapest ones with a limmited lifetime warranty and they are 24.99 so it is very cheap these are general prices for front pads and rotors. if you supplied info on your car like make modle and year i coulda gave more accurate prices.i did all four brakes on my jeep myself for around 150.00 and this is with all new parts and it is very easy if you need help grab a haynes repair manual at auto zone, there like 12.00 and explain it in great detail.|||Yes you need new pads. If you don%26#039;t replace these, then you just threw a bunch of money away.
Ball park, a good price would be about 80 US dollars an axle to get the brakes done. Provided the mechanic does not find something else wrong. This would be a %26quot;Promotional Price%26quot;, you know, a Midas special.
A reputable shop will be more, because they don%26#039;t have to give promotional prices to get customers to bring cars in for service. Some shops are so good they don%26#039;t try to sell you a part like a caliper that you do not need. Hope you can find one of these. The job estimate is always right or less.
While %26quot;Promotional Priced%26quot; repairs very seldom get out the door for less and most likely they will cost a lot more before it is over.|||do no resurface you brake router. leave your brake router alone. and since it is a vw im going to recommend trading it in for something that isnt a complete pile of sh*t
Chaning brake rotors without changing pads?
I changed the front brake pads of my mazda 95 protege without changing brake rotors or resurface last month and got 1000 miles on it.
Now I need to change the front rotors because of its crack. Can I change rotors only or Is it imperative that I always need to change rotors and pads together?
One more question, when I step on brake pedal, it doesn%26#039;t stop right away. to fix this problem, what do I have to do? Do I need to change brake fluid? thank you|||as for your pads, check to see if you have any abnormal wear on them. if they are not cracked and with even wear you would be fine to just replace the rotors. however it is recommended that the pads be changed with the rotors to get the max life out of both. if your rotors are %26quot;cracked%26quot; more then likely your pads are screwed, so replacement would be necessary. i would recommend a ceramic brake pad.
when you replaced the pads, did you crack(open) a bleeder valve? if so you may have air in the lines. you would have to bleed the brake system to remove all air. this could be the cause of your %26quot;not stopping right away%26quot;. is you pedal spongy? this would indicate air in the lines or possibly a bad ABS module/pump. scanning the abs system should tell you if the pump and module are bad.
replacing the brake fluid(a brake flush) increases the viscosity of the hydraulic fluid allowing more pressure to be built up within the lines increasing braking power. it also removes any build up of rust and other contaminants which could block the lines.
As a professional, i would recommend changing the pads to a ceramic pad and a good grade rotor, together and performing a brake fluid flush. (you need a scanner that can access the ABS system and open the valves to properly bleed the system) this should cure your problem. your best bet is to take it to a good shop and have them do the work so you know it is done correctly the first time.
If your using AutoZone parts, the duralast rotors and Cmax pads would be the best. and at 150,000 miles you would need the brake flush done!|||well if the rotor is screwed up i would recommend changing the breaks too. since they have suffered some damage as well which would result in damage to the new rotors. as for the breaks not working right away, it could be a number of things. be more specific.|||You don%26#039;t have to change pads when you change your front rotors.
The stopping problem = you need to bleed your brakes.. you can google on how to do that.|||If there is only 1000 miles on it, personally I can%26#039;t advise you of what to do on these brakes, as a tech you replace it all as a set. pads, resurface/replace rotors.
On my own car, I would probably replace the rotors and re use the pads I had. If they only had 1000 miles on them.
The car not stopping right away can be due to a lot of things, glazed rotors for one, brakes out of adjustment, air in the brake lines, a master cylinder on it%26#039;s way out, or a brake booster not functioning properly.
Brake fluid should be changed every two years or more under severe conditions. It should be clear, and never use DOT 4 on a car with an ABS brake system.|||if it my car then i simply replace only the rotors and if it my friends car then i have them replace both pads and rotors.|||the pads are not hugely expensive so if you can change them too.
but you don,t have to if there is adequate surface left on them,it,s just that they not have worn square and are the shape of the old disc,s pattern.
i,m more worried by the brakes not coming on like you described and this could be due to the calipers being stuck.
no need to change brake fluid unless you want to.
it,s not expensive but labour intensive.|||You have to change your pads when you change your rotors.........PERIOD... Unless you want to invite further headache and unnecessary worry ! Look you already have concerns about your entire brake system, so don%26#039;t risk using USED brake parts with NEW, short of your calipers. Brake fluid isn%26#039;t like oil, Its a hydraulic fluid, that isn%26#039;t exposed to the heat, friction or abuse that oil is, and Ive never changed it in twenty years of working on brakes !
Now I need to change the front rotors because of its crack. Can I change rotors only or Is it imperative that I always need to change rotors and pads together?
One more question, when I step on brake pedal, it doesn%26#039;t stop right away. to fix this problem, what do I have to do? Do I need to change brake fluid? thank you|||as for your pads, check to see if you have any abnormal wear on them. if they are not cracked and with even wear you would be fine to just replace the rotors. however it is recommended that the pads be changed with the rotors to get the max life out of both. if your rotors are %26quot;cracked%26quot; more then likely your pads are screwed, so replacement would be necessary. i would recommend a ceramic brake pad.
when you replaced the pads, did you crack(open) a bleeder valve? if so you may have air in the lines. you would have to bleed the brake system to remove all air. this could be the cause of your %26quot;not stopping right away%26quot;. is you pedal spongy? this would indicate air in the lines or possibly a bad ABS module/pump. scanning the abs system should tell you if the pump and module are bad.
replacing the brake fluid(a brake flush) increases the viscosity of the hydraulic fluid allowing more pressure to be built up within the lines increasing braking power. it also removes any build up of rust and other contaminants which could block the lines.
As a professional, i would recommend changing the pads to a ceramic pad and a good grade rotor, together and performing a brake fluid flush. (you need a scanner that can access the ABS system and open the valves to properly bleed the system) this should cure your problem. your best bet is to take it to a good shop and have them do the work so you know it is done correctly the first time.
If your using AutoZone parts, the duralast rotors and Cmax pads would be the best. and at 150,000 miles you would need the brake flush done!|||well if the rotor is screwed up i would recommend changing the breaks too. since they have suffered some damage as well which would result in damage to the new rotors. as for the breaks not working right away, it could be a number of things. be more specific.|||You don%26#039;t have to change pads when you change your front rotors.
The stopping problem = you need to bleed your brakes.. you can google on how to do that.|||If there is only 1000 miles on it, personally I can%26#039;t advise you of what to do on these brakes, as a tech you replace it all as a set. pads, resurface/replace rotors.
On my own car, I would probably replace the rotors and re use the pads I had. If they only had 1000 miles on them.
The car not stopping right away can be due to a lot of things, glazed rotors for one, brakes out of adjustment, air in the brake lines, a master cylinder on it%26#039;s way out, or a brake booster not functioning properly.
Brake fluid should be changed every two years or more under severe conditions. It should be clear, and never use DOT 4 on a car with an ABS brake system.|||if it my car then i simply replace only the rotors and if it my friends car then i have them replace both pads and rotors.|||the pads are not hugely expensive so if you can change them too.
but you don,t have to if there is adequate surface left on them,it,s just that they not have worn square and are the shape of the old disc,s pattern.
i,m more worried by the brakes not coming on like you described and this could be due to the calipers being stuck.
no need to change brake fluid unless you want to.
it,s not expensive but labour intensive.|||You have to change your pads when you change your rotors.........PERIOD... Unless you want to invite further headache and unnecessary worry ! Look you already have concerns about your entire brake system, so don%26#039;t risk using USED brake parts with NEW, short of your calipers. Brake fluid isn%26#039;t like oil, Its a hydraulic fluid, that isn%26#039;t exposed to the heat, friction or abuse that oil is, and Ive never changed it in twenty years of working on brakes !
Cost of changing brake pads on vw?
how much would dealer charge to change the break pads? is under warranty?
also does anyone know how long pads last under sporty driving?
info: 2008 vw jetta.|||If you have a service plan, they would prob change front brakes at 40 000km - that is with very harsh driving.
brakes should normally last you 80 000km
easy to replace yourself..... and cheaper|||Brake pads are Not under warrenty, it is a wear and tear item.
As mentioned $30 a set if you do it yourself.
A Auto repair shop would charge around 75 to 99 dollars us per axel. A dealer may change a little more depending where you live.|||In England, dealers charge about 拢85 for a set of back pads. And by sporty breaking i assume u mean screwing it into the ground, then anywhere from 6 months to 18months. Your more likely to stress fracture the discs than burn the pads out though.|||www.ecstuning.com
guarantee you find it cheaper than any auto parts store!
just do it yourself..anybody with a set of wrenches. and a c-clamp can do it.|||$ 600,000,000 but change them yourself PRICELESS|||break should last you 8 to 1yr.
also does anyone know how long pads last under sporty driving?
info: 2008 vw jetta.|||If you have a service plan, they would prob change front brakes at 40 000km - that is with very harsh driving.
brakes should normally last you 80 000km
easy to replace yourself..... and cheaper|||Brake pads are Not under warrenty, it is a wear and tear item.
As mentioned $30 a set if you do it yourself.
A Auto repair shop would charge around 75 to 99 dollars us per axel. A dealer may change a little more depending where you live.|||In England, dealers charge about 拢85 for a set of back pads. And by sporty breaking i assume u mean screwing it into the ground, then anywhere from 6 months to 18months. Your more likely to stress fracture the discs than burn the pads out though.|||www.ecstuning.com
guarantee you find it cheaper than any auto parts store!
just do it yourself..anybody with a set of wrenches. and a c-clamp can do it.|||$ 600,000,000 but change them yourself PRICELESS|||break should last you 8 to 1yr.
Hello Dodgeman. After changing my brake pads on my 92 town car do you recommend just compressing the piston?
Should I use a c clamp wrench and push the fluid back into the master cylinder or use the bleeder valve to release the pressure. By the way are there any steps I should taker after changing the pads.|||try prying with a screw driver beetwen the rotor and the old brake pad if you wedge it and pull towards you the piston will go in with the brake fluid lid of the reservior never use the bleeder to release pressure you will let air in and your brakes wont work if your car has anti lock brakes you have to depressurerise it by unpluging the negative side of batterie and steping on your brakes about 5 times no steps after changing pads|||I%26#039;m not Dodgeman, but depends if I want to reuse the brake fluid or not (as it%26#039;s wise to flush out the system occasionally)
If I want to get rid of the fluid, I break the bleeder, but normally let it refill the master cylinder by pushing it back with the c clamp
If I want to get rid of the fluid, I break the bleeder, but normally let it refill the master cylinder by pushing it back with the c clamp
Is it neccesary to machine rotors when changing brake pads?
i know some rotors are not supposed to be resurfaced
but my car is a 1998 chevy malibu so im pretty sure there
resurfaceble but is it neccesary|||I have done thousands of brake jobs. I suggest machining the rotors and or drums at every brake job, this ensures the surface is flat and not warped, you could also risk brake squeak issues and or brake pedal pulsations. If you dont turn them, it%26#039;s not the end of the world, and you still will have safe brakes, but they might make noise and pulsate.|||Nope, only if they are warped. Consult your Chevy dealer. They may not be the type you can resurface.|||It`s not neccesary; but very good policy|||no, it is not always necessary. I only do it when there has been serious metal to metal damage to the rotor, and they can be safely resurfaced.|||I just usually buy new rotors when i purchase brake pads...but thats just me|||If your brakes were jumpy or pulsing before as in warped rotors, then yes. If they were good, then no. Most companies now cut corners so closely, there isn%26#039;t any extra metal to turn off the rotors and still be in minimum tolerances. By the same token, it doesn%26#039;t cost that much to just replace them. I usually turn rotors once before replacing them but I do it myself. If I had to hire it done, I would have them replaced.|||Will is right, I have never done a brake job where I did not get the rotors turned. Get them done, the cost is minimal and the benfits are immeasurable.|||yes yes yes yes yes..everytime you change pads or shoes, machine or replace the rotors or drums. period
but my car is a 1998 chevy malibu so im pretty sure there
resurfaceble but is it neccesary|||I have done thousands of brake jobs. I suggest machining the rotors and or drums at every brake job, this ensures the surface is flat and not warped, you could also risk brake squeak issues and or brake pedal pulsations. If you dont turn them, it%26#039;s not the end of the world, and you still will have safe brakes, but they might make noise and pulsate.|||Nope, only if they are warped. Consult your Chevy dealer. They may not be the type you can resurface.|||It`s not neccesary; but very good policy|||no, it is not always necessary. I only do it when there has been serious metal to metal damage to the rotor, and they can be safely resurfaced.|||I just usually buy new rotors when i purchase brake pads...but thats just me|||If your brakes were jumpy or pulsing before as in warped rotors, then yes. If they were good, then no. Most companies now cut corners so closely, there isn%26#039;t any extra metal to turn off the rotors and still be in minimum tolerances. By the same token, it doesn%26#039;t cost that much to just replace them. I usually turn rotors once before replacing them but I do it myself. If I had to hire it done, I would have them replaced.|||Will is right, I have never done a brake job where I did not get the rotors turned. Get them done, the cost is minimal and the benfits are immeasurable.|||yes yes yes yes yes..everytime you change pads or shoes, machine or replace the rotors or drums. period
What would cause the "piston" not go back in (using a C-clamp)when changing brake pads?
Ford Explorer (99)...2WDR...REAR WHEELS... Its seems STUCK...nothing I do will get it to buldge. I have changes pad on other cars many times, but never run into this problem.
*doesn%26#039;t screw in...no parking brake set|||i just get a new caliper for the vehicle all four it cost more but it the easy way out.|||try taking off the cap to the brake fluid. if ther is too much presur it will not go in|||Don%26#039;t know.Thanks for the two points by the way.|||You%26#039;ve done this before so I assume you have the bleeders open. The brake piston is probably corroded. Good luck fixing that without replacing the caliper. It%26#039;s has disc brakes on all four wheels?|||sounds like it might have some rust or corosion on it.
But some systems do have a way of making the cylinder remaining in the out position to keep it from feeling a Judder when applying the brakes. but I only have seeen that type on foreign vehicles|||Are you sure it doesn%26#039;t screw in ? A friend and I ran into this on his rear discs some time ago. One side screwed counter clockwise and the other side was clockwise. It turned a 15 minute brake job into a 2 hour %26quot;I thought I was a good mechanic%26quot; session. lol
*doesn%26#039;t screw in...no parking brake set|||i just get a new caliper for the vehicle all four it cost more but it the easy way out.|||try taking off the cap to the brake fluid. if ther is too much presur it will not go in|||Don%26#039;t know.Thanks for the two points by the way.|||You%26#039;ve done this before so I assume you have the bleeders open. The brake piston is probably corroded. Good luck fixing that without replacing the caliper. It%26#039;s has disc brakes on all four wheels?|||sounds like it might have some rust or corosion on it.
But some systems do have a way of making the cylinder remaining in the out position to keep it from feeling a Judder when applying the brakes. but I only have seeen that type on foreign vehicles|||Are you sure it doesn%26#039;t screw in ? A friend and I ran into this on his rear discs some time ago. One side screwed counter clockwise and the other side was clockwise. It turned a 15 minute brake job into a 2 hour %26quot;I thought I was a good mechanic%26quot; session. lol
Hi, doeas anybody have any tips for changing brake pads on a skoda felicia?
i dont know how to relieve the brake pressure to get the pads in|||You place a broad lever against the piston and push it back into the brake cylinder. A piece of wood is safest to use. Try to push it back squarely rather than on one edge. And keep an eye on the fluid in the reservoir as it will overflow if you have kept it topped up. A poultry baster is handy for reducing the level if necessary.|||I found it much easier when my boyfriend took his foot off the brake, We struggled for 2hrs until he tried that!|||if is front one just push in brake piston if rear one you need special tools do that
Can I use a turkey baster to remove brake fluid when changing my brake pads?
Instead of draining brake fluid under the car, can I use a turkey baster to remove brake fluid from the brake fluid reservoir?|||yes but be careful not to drip, brake fluid is corrosive|||ummmm, if your changing your brake pads, you dont need to drain the brake fluid. open the master cylinder cap and put rags around it. relieves the pressure when you spread the calipers apart to get the pads out|||Yes. I have done this myself
Just don%26#039;t use it for food any more for obvious reasons|||get a rag or a paper towel to quickly place it on the tip of the baster after you got the fluid in there. you know they drip...|||You shouldn%26#039;t need to remove any brake fluid to change the break pads, unless you want to change the fluid for other reasons. What I do is after I remove the caliper, I use a large C-clamp to compress it for re-installation. Keep the old pad on the caliper when you compress it to prevent damaging the caliper. You shouldn%26#039;t need to do anything else if you car is similar to mine (1997 Jeep Cherokee).
Just don%26#039;t use it for food any more for obvious reasons|||get a rag or a paper towel to quickly place it on the tip of the baster after you got the fluid in there. you know they drip...|||You shouldn%26#039;t need to remove any brake fluid to change the break pads, unless you want to change the fluid for other reasons. What I do is after I remove the caliper, I use a large C-clamp to compress it for re-installation. Keep the old pad on the caliper when you compress it to prevent damaging the caliper. You shouldn%26#039;t need to do anything else if you car is similar to mine (1997 Jeep Cherokee).
Help changing brake pads on 2000 HD Sportster?
Does anyone know the size of the socket needed to loosen the pad pins on the brake caliper of a 2000 HD Sportster?|||1/4 torks|||Once again FART is WRONG......
The socket you need is 1/4%26quot; 12-point.|||yep, 1/4 X 12pt. the VTD b!tchslap ya again bart? awww.|||T40 Torx
(many stupid people don%26#039;t know what a female torx is they just hammer on a 12 point socket)
The socket you need is 1/4%26quot; 12-point.|||yep, 1/4 X 12pt. the VTD b!tchslap ya again bart? awww.|||T40 Torx
(many stupid people don%26#039;t know what a female torx is they just hammer on a 12 point socket)
Changing the brake pads on a vw passat?
Tips on changing my brake pads on VW Passat tdi 130 please? I%26#039;ve never done it before %26amp; would like to give it a try.|||I like to do things myself but changing the brakes on my car if I don%26#039;t know how???? Your best bet ,if you insist on doing it yourself is to have someone there or a phone call away to help. Its not really that hard to replace brake pads but it helps if you have the right tools and a little bit of knowledge.
Just to give you a quick idea ..... jack the front up remove the wheel, there should be 2 bolts holding the caliper on the bolt heads are usually on the inside,loosen bolts remove caliper from rotor,brake line is still connected don%26#039;t remove just let it hang..pop the old pads out ....take a C clamp and compress the piston on the caliper all the way in ... replace the new pads ...put the caliper back on over the rotor line up the bolts screw them back in spray brake cleaner to clean everything put wheel back on ....before starting car press brake pedal a few time till it gets stiff. start car and see if it works it it doesn%26#039;t feel right then you need to bleed brake lines .......
Best bet is to have them done for you ...spend a little money ..but you know its done right
Good luck|||By one of those Haynes manuals which tells you how to do it for your specific type of car. You will never get an adequate and detailed enough response off of here to do it properly. Haynes manuals (I%26#039;ve got one for my Renault Clio) show you how to do it properly and with pictures.|||1- remove wheel
2- unplug brake pad warning sensor behind caliper
3- remove spring clip on caliper- take picture of this with camera phione so you knwo how it goes back
4- using a 7mm allen key undo the slider bolts behind the caliper ,they should have plastic covers on so remove them first.
5- the caliper should now pull off
6- remove old pads
7- if your doing discs aswell youll need to remove the caliper carrier which is two 18mm hex bolts behind the wheel
8. clean the caliper carrier where the pads rest and use copper slip/grease to lubricate the contact points
9- press piston back using large swan neck pliers or similar
10- replace disc and refit caliper carrier
11- fit pads into caliper, the pad with a wanrning loom on goes onto the piston, and the one without goes on the out side of the caliper
12- slide calpier with installed pads, over the disc, but be careful to get the pads positioned over the carrier correctley and be sure to get the wanrning sensor loom clear of the disc and caliper so you can plug it in
13- move the caliper about so it settles to correct position and insert 7mm allen key sliders back into their positions and install the guards behind them
14- refit spring clip to caliper
15- refit wheel and torque wheel bolts to 120 nms|||ok take wheel off open the bonnet take the brake fluid cap off push the pistons back all the way with a large screwdriver just push it in the back of the old pad then undo the two 7mm allenkey bolts on the back slide the old pads out dont let the caliper hang unsported it will weaken the rubber hose and the joints clean with brake cleaner only befoure you putt pads in slide the new ones back in with some copper slip and lock them back into position remember to pump the brake in the car back up before you drive it and there is about 4 diffrent types of pad for the passat so take the old ones with you
Just to give you a quick idea ..... jack the front up remove the wheel, there should be 2 bolts holding the caliper on the bolt heads are usually on the inside,loosen bolts remove caliper from rotor,brake line is still connected don%26#039;t remove just let it hang..pop the old pads out ....take a C clamp and compress the piston on the caliper all the way in ... replace the new pads ...put the caliper back on over the rotor line up the bolts screw them back in spray brake cleaner to clean everything put wheel back on ....before starting car press brake pedal a few time till it gets stiff. start car and see if it works it it doesn%26#039;t feel right then you need to bleed brake lines .......
Best bet is to have them done for you ...spend a little money ..but you know its done right
Good luck|||By one of those Haynes manuals which tells you how to do it for your specific type of car. You will never get an adequate and detailed enough response off of here to do it properly. Haynes manuals (I%26#039;ve got one for my Renault Clio) show you how to do it properly and with pictures.|||1- remove wheel
2- unplug brake pad warning sensor behind caliper
3- remove spring clip on caliper- take picture of this with camera phione so you knwo how it goes back
4- using a 7mm allen key undo the slider bolts behind the caliper ,they should have plastic covers on so remove them first.
5- the caliper should now pull off
6- remove old pads
7- if your doing discs aswell youll need to remove the caliper carrier which is two 18mm hex bolts behind the wheel
8. clean the caliper carrier where the pads rest and use copper slip/grease to lubricate the contact points
9- press piston back using large swan neck pliers or similar
10- replace disc and refit caliper carrier
11- fit pads into caliper, the pad with a wanrning loom on goes onto the piston, and the one without goes on the out side of the caliper
12- slide calpier with installed pads, over the disc, but be careful to get the pads positioned over the carrier correctley and be sure to get the wanrning sensor loom clear of the disc and caliper so you can plug it in
13- move the caliper about so it settles to correct position and insert 7mm allen key sliders back into their positions and install the guards behind them
14- refit spring clip to caliper
15- refit wheel and torque wheel bolts to 120 nms|||ok take wheel off open the bonnet take the brake fluid cap off push the pistons back all the way with a large screwdriver just push it in the back of the old pad then undo the two 7mm allenkey bolts on the back slide the old pads out dont let the caliper hang unsported it will weaken the rubber hose and the joints clean with brake cleaner only befoure you putt pads in slide the new ones back in with some copper slip and lock them back into position remember to pump the brake in the car back up before you drive it and there is about 4 diffrent types of pad for the passat so take the old ones with you
Cost of changing brake pads and rotors?
On my 2 front tires.
Backs are in good shape so.........................
Prices people.
Whats it gonna cost me ?|||i dont know if you would be up to it. but i would actually recommend doing the service yourself. it will save you a bundle and only takes about 45 minutes at most. heres the video i recommended to other people who are intrested. but it would cost about $150 for a set of pads and rotors
$250 for a mechanic to do it
heres the vid if your intrested
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VrFezS0FC鈥?/a>|||What kind of vehicle do you have? This has a lot to do with the cost.|||about 260 bucks...
Good luck!|||it does depend on what kind of ehicle, and what kind of brakes you have, if the front brake ar disk and not drum then it will be cheaper because it is easier to do. the for cheap set of rotors and pads it will probably cost around $100, and a good mechanic could do it in less than an hour, and throw on another $50 for labor. but it really isnt hard to o if the brakes are disk brakes. I would suggest looking online, they have 3-4 videos on how to change disk brakes, and what you need to do.|||Rotors can cost anywhere from $15 each to $100+ each depending on the kind of vehicle you have. With brake pads, price depends on what type of friction material is used for the pads and what application it is for. Call your local auto parts store for accurate prices.
Backs are in good shape so.........................
Prices people.
Whats it gonna cost me ?|||i dont know if you would be up to it. but i would actually recommend doing the service yourself. it will save you a bundle and only takes about 45 minutes at most. heres the video i recommended to other people who are intrested. but it would cost about $150 for a set of pads and rotors
$250 for a mechanic to do it
heres the vid if your intrested
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VrFezS0FC鈥?/a>|||What kind of vehicle do you have? This has a lot to do with the cost.|||about 260 bucks...
Good luck!|||it does depend on what kind of ehicle, and what kind of brakes you have, if the front brake ar disk and not drum then it will be cheaper because it is easier to do. the for cheap set of rotors and pads it will probably cost around $100, and a good mechanic could do it in less than an hour, and throw on another $50 for labor. but it really isnt hard to o if the brakes are disk brakes. I would suggest looking online, they have 3-4 videos on how to change disk brakes, and what you need to do.|||Rotors can cost anywhere from $15 each to $100+ each depending on the kind of vehicle you have. With brake pads, price depends on what type of friction material is used for the pads and what application it is for. Call your local auto parts store for accurate prices.
Changing my brake pads/rotors. Do I need new brake shoes for the rear also?
I own a 2005 Honda Civic with 45,000 miles on it. The rotors in the front are grinding so I am going to purchase a new set of rotors and brake pads for the front. I do know that the brakes are utilized more in the front when the Honda stops. Does this mean I need to change the brake shoes in the rear?|||Break pad in the front do wear much faster, the only way to know is to look the drums come off pretty easy , new one should be close to 1/4 %26quot; thick also good time to rotate tires should be done avery 5000 miles or so for best wear .|||No you should not have to change the rear shoes but I would take a look at them anyway.|||Not necessarily, but check the rear brake linings also to give you piece of mind.
45,000 miles on a set of brakes isn%26#039;t good. That%26#039;s a sign of hard braking. I always get 60,000 miles or more on a set of brakes (city driving). I just did my Suzuki at 65,000 miles. I got just over 70,000 miles on my pick-up. Start slowing down before you have to use the brakes. Sometimes the obstruction ahead (turning car, traffic light) will clear and you won%26#039;t have to use your brakes at all.|||At 45,000 miles, not unless there%26#039;s a problem. In fact, 45,000 miles is awfully early for front pads, let alone rotors. Average for fronts would be around 60k, rears can often go well over a hundred.|||Your are a wise man replacing front Rotors and Pads,
It is not only Miles that determine Brake Life----A lot of stop and go driving-Mountains-Fast stops;all can play a part;
45,000 miles on a set of brakes isn%26#039;t good. That%26#039;s a sign of hard braking. I always get 60,000 miles or more on a set of brakes (city driving). I just did my Suzuki at 65,000 miles. I got just over 70,000 miles on my pick-up. Start slowing down before you have to use the brakes. Sometimes the obstruction ahead (turning car, traffic light) will clear and you won%26#039;t have to use your brakes at all.|||At 45,000 miles, not unless there%26#039;s a problem. In fact, 45,000 miles is awfully early for front pads, let alone rotors. Average for fronts would be around 60k, rears can often go well over a hundred.|||Your are a wise man replacing front Rotors and Pads,
It is not only Miles that determine Brake Life----A lot of stop and go driving-Mountains-Fast stops;all can play a part;
Changing brake pads turned into nightmare on my '92 MX6 2.5L Manual?
I replaced all brake pads and found my back left calliper seized so i took it to the shop and $400 later it was freed up. however only one brake bleeds properly the rest are somehow blocked. to top it off it no longer gos into gear. when its in gear the clutch works fine (its also new). getting it into gear is the hard bit like hitting a brick wall. its now parked up on a driveway in reverse because the handbrake wont hold it. the shop said it may be the master cylinder or the abs. any help would be great.|||Mazda Specialist here. There are a couple of things that need to be done. First off, The Brake Caliper Bleeder Screws need to come off and have the rust or mud or both scraped out of them and then blown through with the air compressor. Then of course put back in.
The master cylinder on those feeds hydrulic fluid to both the brakes and the clutch so you need to do a full system bleed. The 92 does not have the OBD2 uplink from the WDS scan tool to do an automated ABS Sytem Bleed so you have to do it like this.
EXACTLY like this to clear out the ABS dump solinoids
Two People, one in the car to push the brake pedal and one under the car to open the bleeder screws.
Pump the brake pedal 3 times and then open the bleeder screw on the Rear Brake CLOSEST to the Master Cylinder. close after the person in the car indicates that thje pedal is at the floor. Repeat until all the air is out and you get nothing but fresh clean fluid
Top up the fluid in the Master Cylinder and then bleed the REAR WHEEL FARTHEST FROM THE MASTER CYLINDER.
%26quot;I say this in Caps because this is the way designated by Mazda%26#039;s engineer%26#039;s to do it.%26quot;
Then bleed the Front Wheel CLOSEST to the Master Cylinder and then the Front wheel FARTHEST from the master cylinder.
ALL THE WHILE MAKING SURE THE MASTER CYLINDER NEVER RUNS OUT OF FLUID OR YOU DO IT ALL OVER AGAIN.
After that, then Bleed the Clutch Slave Cylinder.
Use DOT 4 Brake Fluid Only|||For $400, you could have replaced both rear calipers...
It%26#039;s actually the handbrake (e brake) linkage that seizes, and although it can be cleaned and lubed, a replacement is the only cure...
This is a common fault..
The clutch may be adjusted wrongly, or it could be a slave or master cylinder leaking internally.. maybe just needs bleeding correctly... it%26#039;s definitely nothing to do with the ABS...
For any more help with the car, checkout www.mx6.com
John|||Your mistake was taking it to the shop instead of turning the calipers in for rebuilt units.
Sounds like the shop are idiots. If you are in CA it%26#039;s time to talk to the Bureau of Automotive Repair.|||Hi Not sure what an MX6 is but maybe Mazda ,your caliper problem could well be linked to the clutch operation if the clutch fluid is supplied from the brake master cylinder ,it would appear that the fluid may have been run to low ..
Okay 1st isolate the problem
clamp all flexible brakes hoses at wheels . press brake pedal
if pedal is hard ,master cylinder is ok
then release each pipe in turn ,checking pedal for pressure if pressure drops in one wheel only theres the problem .
some systems need to be pressure bled as the fluid will not drop from reservoir into master cylinder without pressure .
as in previous post ABS will not be the problem ,.
finally do not let the same people touch this as they are obviously unqualified ,, hope this will be of some help to you
Paul Liverpool UK
The master cylinder on those feeds hydrulic fluid to both the brakes and the clutch so you need to do a full system bleed. The 92 does not have the OBD2 uplink from the WDS scan tool to do an automated ABS Sytem Bleed so you have to do it like this.
EXACTLY like this to clear out the ABS dump solinoids
Two People, one in the car to push the brake pedal and one under the car to open the bleeder screws.
Pump the brake pedal 3 times and then open the bleeder screw on the Rear Brake CLOSEST to the Master Cylinder. close after the person in the car indicates that thje pedal is at the floor. Repeat until all the air is out and you get nothing but fresh clean fluid
Top up the fluid in the Master Cylinder and then bleed the REAR WHEEL FARTHEST FROM THE MASTER CYLINDER.
%26quot;I say this in Caps because this is the way designated by Mazda%26#039;s engineer%26#039;s to do it.%26quot;
Then bleed the Front Wheel CLOSEST to the Master Cylinder and then the Front wheel FARTHEST from the master cylinder.
ALL THE WHILE MAKING SURE THE MASTER CYLINDER NEVER RUNS OUT OF FLUID OR YOU DO IT ALL OVER AGAIN.
After that, then Bleed the Clutch Slave Cylinder.
Use DOT 4 Brake Fluid Only|||For $400, you could have replaced both rear calipers...
It%26#039;s actually the handbrake (e brake) linkage that seizes, and although it can be cleaned and lubed, a replacement is the only cure...
This is a common fault..
The clutch may be adjusted wrongly, or it could be a slave or master cylinder leaking internally.. maybe just needs bleeding correctly... it%26#039;s definitely nothing to do with the ABS...
For any more help with the car, checkout www.mx6.com
John|||Your mistake was taking it to the shop instead of turning the calipers in for rebuilt units.
Sounds like the shop are idiots. If you are in CA it%26#039;s time to talk to the Bureau of Automotive Repair.|||Hi Not sure what an MX6 is but maybe Mazda ,your caliper problem could well be linked to the clutch operation if the clutch fluid is supplied from the brake master cylinder ,it would appear that the fluid may have been run to low ..
Okay 1st isolate the problem
clamp all flexible brakes hoses at wheels . press brake pedal
if pedal is hard ,master cylinder is ok
then release each pipe in turn ,checking pedal for pressure if pressure drops in one wheel only theres the problem .
some systems need to be pressure bled as the fluid will not drop from reservoir into master cylinder without pressure .
as in previous post ABS will not be the problem ,.
finally do not let the same people touch this as they are obviously unqualified ,, hope this will be of some help to you
Paul Liverpool UK
Changing my brake pads tommrow and have a few questions?
Do i need to take the top off the master cylinder reservoir when i push the piston back in on the caliper? Or at any time during replacing my pads?
My brake fluid level is nearly at the max and i plan i replacing front and rear pads, should i take some of the fluid out before i start?|||Yes -- definitely - or you will have fluid coming out the vent hole in the cap OR you will hit resistance when you press the caliper piston(s) in to provide clearance for the new pads.
Purchase a NEW cooking baster, $0.99, ( it must clean and not contaminated with any chemicals), and remove all the fluid you can down to the bottom. Push the piston in and install your pads on the pass rear wheel first. Watch the fluid as you push the other pistons in so it does not overflow.
When finished with all four wheels - top off the master cylinder with new fluid and start with the further est wheel for bleeding. Bleed until the fluid runs clear. Move to the drivers rear and do the same thing. You will have to check the master cyl each time you bleed a caliper so it does not run dry or you will have to start the bleeding all over. When you bleed the last caliper, (driver front) , then top off the master cyl and reinstall your wheels and you%26#039;re good to go.
If you do not plan to bleed the system and it is dirty - then is is just a matter of time before you will have to do it or have it done. Now is a good time to do it all.
Note: Do not touch any brake fluid or parts of the master cylinder that come in contact with the brake fluid - especially with oil or grease on your hands or tools. Those chemicals will ruin the neoprene and rubber parts in the entire brake system.|||yes to both|||No leave the cap on and dont take any fluid out just compress the pistons slowly one full turn then wait a few seconds then do it again until they are all the way in.|||Don%26#039;t take the top off the reservoir unless you want a mess in your engine compartment.|||If you leave the top on, you could crack the sides of the master cylinder reservoir.
Drain some out.
Leave the top off.
Compress the caliper cups all the way in.
Intall new pads.
Top off master cylinder.
Put the top on.|||if it is an abs system you do not want to compress back to the master cylinder, it can damage the system. in this situation i would crack the bleeders and then compress the pistons/wheel cylinders back to the starting position. leave the cap on the master so that you do not damage the paint around it.
My brake fluid level is nearly at the max and i plan i replacing front and rear pads, should i take some of the fluid out before i start?|||Yes -- definitely - or you will have fluid coming out the vent hole in the cap OR you will hit resistance when you press the caliper piston(s) in to provide clearance for the new pads.
Purchase a NEW cooking baster, $0.99, ( it must clean and not contaminated with any chemicals), and remove all the fluid you can down to the bottom. Push the piston in and install your pads on the pass rear wheel first. Watch the fluid as you push the other pistons in so it does not overflow.
When finished with all four wheels - top off the master cylinder with new fluid and start with the further est wheel for bleeding. Bleed until the fluid runs clear. Move to the drivers rear and do the same thing. You will have to check the master cyl each time you bleed a caliper so it does not run dry or you will have to start the bleeding all over. When you bleed the last caliper, (driver front) , then top off the master cyl and reinstall your wheels and you%26#039;re good to go.
If you do not plan to bleed the system and it is dirty - then is is just a matter of time before you will have to do it or have it done. Now is a good time to do it all.
Note: Do not touch any brake fluid or parts of the master cylinder that come in contact with the brake fluid - especially with oil or grease on your hands or tools. Those chemicals will ruin the neoprene and rubber parts in the entire brake system.|||yes to both|||No leave the cap on and dont take any fluid out just compress the pistons slowly one full turn then wait a few seconds then do it again until they are all the way in.|||Don%26#039;t take the top off the reservoir unless you want a mess in your engine compartment.|||If you leave the top on, you could crack the sides of the master cylinder reservoir.
Drain some out.
Leave the top off.
Compress the caliper cups all the way in.
Intall new pads.
Top off master cylinder.
Put the top on.|||if it is an abs system you do not want to compress back to the master cylinder, it can damage the system. in this situation i would crack the bleeders and then compress the pistons/wheel cylinders back to the starting position. leave the cap on the master so that you do not damage the paint around it.
Is it necessary to replace the springs when changing drum brake pads?
My %26#039;96 Buick Skylark needs new rear brake pads, I plan to do it myself for the first time and have watched a few youtube clips; the professional auto repair vids. say all the hardware should be replaced.... but does it have to be? Do the springs really wear out as fast as the pads, or can they be reused? Personal experience or expert advice appreciated!|||they dont wear out but they do rust and break, I always replace hardware. Its cheap insurance, if a spring breaks it usually ruins the drum.|||I%26#039;ve reused them several time, they don%26#039;t usually wear out for 10 years or more, then they will break. You can reuse them once.|||YOU DON%26#039;T HAVE TO IF THEY ARE IN GOOD SHAPE BUT THE RULE OF THUMB IS TO REPLACE THEM SO THAT YOU ARE SURE THEY ARE PULLING THE SHOES BACK TO THE WHEEL CYLINDERS LIKE THEY SHOULD.|||generally you don%26#039;t need to replace them, I have never had to replace a brake spring, except for the one or 2 il lost.
Changing brake pads on ford escort 1995?
i need to know step by step how to change my brake pads as i have lost my manual many thanks
stevo|||remove calipers and brake pads. you will need a tool to re-collapse the calipers at the next step. its best to leave the inboard pad in place as a brace to collapse the caliper. then put anti-seize on all moving parts and install new pads. there are numerous different kinds of brake anti-squeal that is made, buy one and spray it on your pads. once pads are back in caliper, reinstall total unit. MAKE SURE that while you are in there you look at everything else in that area. Look at your CV boots, tie rod ends and ball joints. Also check the condition of your brake hoses. BE SURE TO PUMP THE BRAKES BEFORE ENGAGING TRANSMISSION!!! and if any of this stumbles you. DONT TOUCH!!! bring it to a shop.|||buy a new one step by step stevo|||This is a great time to make friends with your local shop. They usually have manuals laying around they can loan you, mine usually do. But then again iam cute and have big boobs, that might have something to do with it.
another great source is your local library, they actually carry those things. if worse comes to worse buy one from ebay.|||i want to see your big boobs!!!!!!!|||I have several 94s and 95s and I%26#039;m real familiar w/ them.
Brakes are easy and quick but there are a couple pitfalls
to watch for that involve parts and part numbers during
both those years that Ford and NAPA catalogs don%26#039;t address.
Fell free to e-mail me for more info.
stevo|||remove calipers and brake pads. you will need a tool to re-collapse the calipers at the next step. its best to leave the inboard pad in place as a brace to collapse the caliper. then put anti-seize on all moving parts and install new pads. there are numerous different kinds of brake anti-squeal that is made, buy one and spray it on your pads. once pads are back in caliper, reinstall total unit. MAKE SURE that while you are in there you look at everything else in that area. Look at your CV boots, tie rod ends and ball joints. Also check the condition of your brake hoses. BE SURE TO PUMP THE BRAKES BEFORE ENGAGING TRANSMISSION!!! and if any of this stumbles you. DONT TOUCH!!! bring it to a shop.|||buy a new one step by step stevo|||This is a great time to make friends with your local shop. They usually have manuals laying around they can loan you, mine usually do. But then again iam cute and have big boobs, that might have something to do with it.
another great source is your local library, they actually carry those things. if worse comes to worse buy one from ebay.|||i want to see your big boobs!!!!!!!|||I have several 94s and 95s and I%26#039;m real familiar w/ them.
Brakes are easy and quick but there are a couple pitfalls
to watch for that involve parts and part numbers during
both those years that Ford and NAPA catalogs don%26#039;t address.
Fell free to e-mail me for more info.
How much should changing brake pads on a 2005 corolla with 71,000 miles cost?
less than $130.|||if you do it yourself 60 bucks...if you have it taken in 200|||around 80-100 bucks
Changing brake pads pulling off caliper?
when ever i try to change brake pads its either hit or miss....
sometimes when i pull off caliper the pistons and worn pads are pushed to the rotor making it impossible to slide in the new pads....
please note that i dont want to use a method that would break any seal around piston
how do i push em back or prepare my car for the maintenance?|||Use a C-clamp and press on the old brake pad ( pushes the piston back )
you first MUST remove the 2 caliper bolts and pull the caliper off the rotor. You do not have to remove the brake line though... Just try to balance the caliper on top of the rotor while working with it to push the piston back.. No brake bleeding required this way|||In an automotive garage they usually have a tool for pushing the caliper pistons back into the caliper. It looks like a backwards pliers that pushes out with two plates on each side. This essentially pushes both sides of the caliper back in easily. You could try to find one of these or you can use channel locks to push the calipers back in a little at a time. Vise Grips will also work great if you have these tools. If not you can always try to use anything like a screwdriver or something like that to simply push the calipers back in.|||I usually pry open the caliper a little with a big screw driver to release some of the pressure and then the caliper and pads come right off. Open the break fluid container in the engine compartment and get ready to soak up the overflow.
It is very hard to take them off if you do not release some of the pressure.|||I use a 6 inch c-clamp. Leave one of the old pads in the Caliber against the piston and Tighten slowly, and do not be alarmed with fluid that might over flow from the master cylinder.|||you use a c-clamp to push the piston back into its bore so the new pads will go over the rotor.you won,t break the seal. the seal is up inside the piston. what you see on the outside is the dust boot.
sometimes when i pull off caliper the pistons and worn pads are pushed to the rotor making it impossible to slide in the new pads....
please note that i dont want to use a method that would break any seal around piston
how do i push em back or prepare my car for the maintenance?|||Use a C-clamp and press on the old brake pad ( pushes the piston back )
you first MUST remove the 2 caliper bolts and pull the caliper off the rotor. You do not have to remove the brake line though... Just try to balance the caliper on top of the rotor while working with it to push the piston back.. No brake bleeding required this way|||In an automotive garage they usually have a tool for pushing the caliper pistons back into the caliper. It looks like a backwards pliers that pushes out with two plates on each side. This essentially pushes both sides of the caliper back in easily. You could try to find one of these or you can use channel locks to push the calipers back in a little at a time. Vise Grips will also work great if you have these tools. If not you can always try to use anything like a screwdriver or something like that to simply push the calipers back in.|||I usually pry open the caliper a little with a big screw driver to release some of the pressure and then the caliper and pads come right off. Open the break fluid container in the engine compartment and get ready to soak up the overflow.
It is very hard to take them off if you do not release some of the pressure.|||I use a 6 inch c-clamp. Leave one of the old pads in the Caliber against the piston and Tighten slowly, and do not be alarmed with fluid that might over flow from the master cylinder.|||you use a c-clamp to push the piston back into its bore so the new pads will go over the rotor.you won,t break the seal. the seal is up inside the piston. what you see on the outside is the dust boot.
What would cause only one tire rim to get too hot to touch after changing brake pads?
The piston in the caliper sounds like it%26#039;s not retracting fully,lift the car up and start it,apply brakes,then see if you can turn the tire by hand,if you cant then thats the probelm.|||Improper adjustment, could be put together wrong...|||Caliper may not be sliding on the sliding bolts.Did you replace all hardware properly,to allow it to slide.If the piston went in hard then it is the caliper that needs replaced.|||Wheel bearings. Warped rotor. Improper fit / alignment. Caliper stuck.|||You%26#039;re about to have to buy a new caliper. It%26#039;s dried up, no grease. Better to go ahead and buy both. You will have to bleed the brake system after you replace the calipers because air will get into your brake lines. I actually had the brakes catch on fire when my calipers locked up on my old Thunderbird. So, replace them ASAP.|||caliper frozen it try to gt back into original position it was before you changed padsit sqeezing it too hard and it will catch fire if you dont change it;so get it done|||Shoes are probably adjusted to tight.|||Either a bad caliper or a restricted brake hose. to test it. jack up the car, apply the brakes several times. At the wheel that is dragging open the bleeder on the caliper. If the wheel still drags it%26#039;s the caliper, if it releases, it%26#039;s the hoses. NOTE. which ever it is, replace both sides or a brake pull could develop|||Distorted or damaged rotor or possible sticking caliper|||Problem. The brake pad is rubbing on the disk. Better get it checked immediately. I had a problem like this when the master cylinder went berserk and the brakes started locking up. My wheels got so hot the valve caps were melting right off the valve stems.
Changing brake pads on 2001 mitsubishi eclipse?
I am going to change brakes on my eclipse this weekend. I have a few questions.
1) For rear brakes Do i need special tool to depress piston/
2) Do i have to remove the cap of brake fluid tank?
3) Whats the best place to buy brakes?|||1-if your car has ratcheting type rear calipers then yes you need a special tool.napa sells it.its a universal one.its cheap though.
2-when compressing the calipers the brake fluid will return back to the master cylinder and could over flow/spill out.so your best bet is to pop the hood and take the cover off the master cylinder and see if its full or low.it should be low if the pads are worn and you never put fluid in the master cylinder.so then your safe of not have to drain any out.as for pads,your best bet is to call all local parts stores and get prices.oh and heres a helpful hint if you need to drain some brake fluid out.use an old dish soap bottle to suck out the fluid.it usually works good.|||Yes you need a %26quot;C%26quot; clamp to compress the piston, yes you need to remove the cap on the brake fluid(compressing the piston force the fluid back to the reservoir) and go to Advance, Auto Zone, NAPA, Nationwise, etc. for your pads.|||1) not sure on a mitsubishi, but try compressing the piston with a set of large channel lock pliers, or a C-clamp on the inboard pad. if it doesn%26#039;t ga in very easily, you may need to rotate the piston as you push it in.
2) Technically, yes. You are supposed to remove the cap, and using a turkey baster, remove about half of the brake fluid in the resevoir. Doing this will avoid overflowing the resevoir when you compress the pistons on the calipers.
3) the best place is the dealer. They have the original parts. Not the cheapest though. You may consider someplace like AutoZone or Murray%26#039;s that have a lifetime warranty on their brake pads. That%26#039;s what I do but that is only because my car eats brake pads. Brake late, and carry alot of speed through the corners!!
1) For rear brakes Do i need special tool to depress piston/
2) Do i have to remove the cap of brake fluid tank?
3) Whats the best place to buy brakes?|||1-if your car has ratcheting type rear calipers then yes you need a special tool.napa sells it.its a universal one.its cheap though.
2-when compressing the calipers the brake fluid will return back to the master cylinder and could over flow/spill out.so your best bet is to pop the hood and take the cover off the master cylinder and see if its full or low.it should be low if the pads are worn and you never put fluid in the master cylinder.so then your safe of not have to drain any out.as for pads,your best bet is to call all local parts stores and get prices.oh and heres a helpful hint if you need to drain some brake fluid out.use an old dish soap bottle to suck out the fluid.it usually works good.|||Yes you need a %26quot;C%26quot; clamp to compress the piston, yes you need to remove the cap on the brake fluid(compressing the piston force the fluid back to the reservoir) and go to Advance, Auto Zone, NAPA, Nationwise, etc. for your pads.|||1) not sure on a mitsubishi, but try compressing the piston with a set of large channel lock pliers, or a C-clamp on the inboard pad. if it doesn%26#039;t ga in very easily, you may need to rotate the piston as you push it in.
2) Technically, yes. You are supposed to remove the cap, and using a turkey baster, remove about half of the brake fluid in the resevoir. Doing this will avoid overflowing the resevoir when you compress the pistons on the calipers.
3) the best place is the dealer. They have the original parts. Not the cheapest though. You may consider someplace like AutoZone or Murray%26#039;s that have a lifetime warranty on their brake pads. That%26#039;s what I do but that is only because my car eats brake pads. Brake late, and carry alot of speed through the corners!!
Should you loosen bleeder screw when changing brake pads?
Just curious. Some sites say to do it, others don%26#039;t.|||Mike C has the right answer. ABS can be a nightmare to bleed if you allow back pressue in|||If you have abs you need to loosen the bleeder. Otherwise it is ok to just remove the master cylinder cap to depress piston.|||No don%26#039;t do it, push the calipers back (sometimes I have to use a C clamp,) then put your pads on. Unless you want air in the lines and bleed them.|||Unless you car requires this specific operation do not loosen the bleeder screw as you may allow air into the brake line.
If anything, loosen the cap for the brake fluid reservoir as the fluid will move a bit when you compress the caliper pistons to allow space for the new pads.|||You stand a better chance of getting air in the line doing that. When you use a clamp to press the caliper open to make room for the new pads will force the fluid back to the master cylinder reservoir.
You want to slowly press the caliper open as you do it.|||If you are just changing pads, No leave it alone. Unless there is air in your brake lines there is no need to bleed them. an argument can be made that bleeding the lines and purging old possibly contaminated fluid from the system may prolong component life, but without the proper tools %26amp; experience you will only end up costing yourself more money in broken parts|||There is no need to open the bleeder screw. Do as the other have stated and compress the calipers with a c-clamp and insert the new pads.
If you are doing work on your car I would recommend getting the manual.|||Yes especially if you have abs.brakes. you have to be very careful when removing the master cylinder cap to push the pads in,because if you have taken your car for servicing( oil change) some times they will will add to all necessary Fluid to the car. there for if you don%26#039;t open the bleeder you can cause three problem first you can knock the timing of the abs motor out which will require a trained tech. two you can cause the proportionary valve to stick due to the Fluid being forced backwards through it.third if you take the cap off and brake Fluid gets on the paint,and it not removed it will damage the paint and body of the body panels|||I never have and I have changed pads a lot.|||No !!! Just push the pistons back into the caliper, watch master cylinder reservoir, so you don%26#039;t have brake fluid running out. you may have to take some of the fluid out of the reservoir, so it isn%26#039;t overfull.|||no you don,t ! just take off the master cylinder lid off and take a c-clamp and run the piston all the way in.if anytime you loosen the bleeder your going to get air in it.|||never--------remove the master cylinder cap during installation|||I have changed pads on my 2002 VW Jetta with ABS and I have never loosen the bleeder. But one time I did change a caliper so I have the bleed the system anyway. This is the first time I hear about it
If anything, loosen the cap for the brake fluid reservoir as the fluid will move a bit when you compress the caliper pistons to allow space for the new pads.|||You stand a better chance of getting air in the line doing that. When you use a clamp to press the caliper open to make room for the new pads will force the fluid back to the master cylinder reservoir.
You want to slowly press the caliper open as you do it.|||If you are just changing pads, No leave it alone. Unless there is air in your brake lines there is no need to bleed them. an argument can be made that bleeding the lines and purging old possibly contaminated fluid from the system may prolong component life, but without the proper tools %26amp; experience you will only end up costing yourself more money in broken parts|||There is no need to open the bleeder screw. Do as the other have stated and compress the calipers with a c-clamp and insert the new pads.
If you are doing work on your car I would recommend getting the manual.|||Yes especially if you have abs.brakes. you have to be very careful when removing the master cylinder cap to push the pads in,because if you have taken your car for servicing( oil change) some times they will will add to all necessary Fluid to the car. there for if you don%26#039;t open the bleeder you can cause three problem first you can knock the timing of the abs motor out which will require a trained tech. two you can cause the proportionary valve to stick due to the Fluid being forced backwards through it.third if you take the cap off and brake Fluid gets on the paint,and it not removed it will damage the paint and body of the body panels|||I never have and I have changed pads a lot.|||No !!! Just push the pistons back into the caliper, watch master cylinder reservoir, so you don%26#039;t have brake fluid running out. you may have to take some of the fluid out of the reservoir, so it isn%26#039;t overfull.|||no you don,t ! just take off the master cylinder lid off and take a c-clamp and run the piston all the way in.if anytime you loosen the bleeder your going to get air in it.|||never--------remove the master cylinder cap during installation|||I have changed pads on my 2002 VW Jetta with ABS and I have never loosen the bleeder. But one time I did change a caliper so I have the bleed the system anyway. This is the first time I hear about it
Where can i find instructions on changing brake pads for a FORD Explorer?
The Ford Explorer is a 2000 Limited edition with disk brakes on both front and back.|||Stop by one of the local parts stores and get a repair and maintenance manual. Chilton and Haynes manuals are what they normally have and they%26#039;ll detail what you need to do.|||Just go buy a $20.00 manual from your parts house. It is good to have around. Have fun day|||buy a Chilton or Hayes shop manual at any advance or zone|||take off the tire there should be 2 bolts on back of caliper take them off, remove old pad, collapse the caliper, put in new pads, slide caliper back onto rotor, put bolts back in, make sure you have the caliper back on before you compress the caliper on the other side
for the back it is pretty much the same, but you might need a certain tool to compress rear calipers|||it is a very easy job to do but I have been a mechanic for 28 years.But the best thing I could tell you is go on the internet and look up(,Haynes Repair manual).These manuals have a step by step instructions for everyting that pertains to your truck.|||It isn%26#039;t hard to change a set of pads.......1.Block the tires with a piece of wood(heavy and strong)2.Loosen the lug nuts(don%26#039;t take them off yet)3.Open the hood.4.Remove the master cylinder cap and wrap a rag around it(for overflow)5.Jack the truck up and finish removing the lugnuts and take the tire off.6.Look behind the caliper(brake pad holder) to see what size the bolts or allen bolts are and get the right size wrench or socket.7.Remove the bolts and the caliper.8.remove the old brake pads and put the new ones in.9.Put the caliper back in and bolt it in. Do this for however many pads you are replacing,and DO NOT,I REPEAT DO NOT PUMP THE BRAKES until you have finished replacing the pads and put the master cylinder cap BACK ON! See how easy that was?!!|||There is no place on the web that will give you this information free. Your best bet is to buy a repair manual, they are not expensive and they will tell you anything you need to know.
for the back it is pretty much the same, but you might need a certain tool to compress rear calipers|||it is a very easy job to do but I have been a mechanic for 28 years.But the best thing I could tell you is go on the internet and look up(,Haynes Repair manual).These manuals have a step by step instructions for everyting that pertains to your truck.|||It isn%26#039;t hard to change a set of pads.......1.Block the tires with a piece of wood(heavy and strong)2.Loosen the lug nuts(don%26#039;t take them off yet)3.Open the hood.4.Remove the master cylinder cap and wrap a rag around it(for overflow)5.Jack the truck up and finish removing the lugnuts and take the tire off.6.Look behind the caliper(brake pad holder) to see what size the bolts or allen bolts are and get the right size wrench or socket.7.Remove the bolts and the caliper.8.remove the old brake pads and put the new ones in.9.Put the caliper back in and bolt it in. Do this for however many pads you are replacing,and DO NOT,I REPEAT DO NOT PUMP THE BRAKES until you have finished replacing the pads and put the master cylinder cap BACK ON! See how easy that was?!!|||There is no place on the web that will give you this information free. Your best bet is to buy a repair manual, they are not expensive and they will tell you anything you need to know.
With ABS systems on most cars, how does it affect the changing of brake pads?
http://videos.howstuffworks.com/discovery-turbo/33715-turbo-changing-brake-pads-video.htm
This video shows how to change brake pads, but here%26#039;s my question. My dad knows how to change them, but he%26#039;s afraid to do it with cars with ABS systems on them, fearing he%26#039;d somehow ruin it. Is there any difference? If so, could you link me to a video, or just tell me?|||Remember to have your brake fluid changed every 2-3 years. Other than that, the pads are pretty much the same. Uswe ONLY the genuine brake fluid for your particular car found at your dealership. NEVER mix different brands of brake fluid together. Disaster follows, on down the road!|||Depends on what kind of vehicle we%26#039;re talking about. Early automotive applications of ABS would have a reserve pressure. That would be the ABS accumulator. Such accumulators are designed to hold a high PSi in the system. Red flag%26#039;s up here. Follow all warnings and recommendations by the vehicle manufacturer. Especially when performing brake work.
Best wishes and stay safe.|||Explain to your dad that the ABS system is a sensor and ring attached to the hub - it has no bearing on the actual calipers and brake pads - which are generally the same parts on any specific vehicle whether the vehicle has ABS or not.|||abs systems have a sensor usually located somewhere on the axle or on the spindle /mounting area. usually has a single wire attached to it. as long as you do not damage this or bend it etc. the procedure for changing pads is the same.|||No difference. The calipers themselves don%26#039;t have any ABS components in them.
Changing some wheel discs might affect the wheel speed sensors, but even these are quite simple.|||It doesn%26#039;t look any different. You will see the sensor,but it is inboard from where the pads are.
This video shows how to change brake pads, but here%26#039;s my question. My dad knows how to change them, but he%26#039;s afraid to do it with cars with ABS systems on them, fearing he%26#039;d somehow ruin it. Is there any difference? If so, could you link me to a video, or just tell me?|||Remember to have your brake fluid changed every 2-3 years. Other than that, the pads are pretty much the same. Uswe ONLY the genuine brake fluid for your particular car found at your dealership. NEVER mix different brands of brake fluid together. Disaster follows, on down the road!|||Depends on what kind of vehicle we%26#039;re talking about. Early automotive applications of ABS would have a reserve pressure. That would be the ABS accumulator. Such accumulators are designed to hold a high PSi in the system. Red flag%26#039;s up here. Follow all warnings and recommendations by the vehicle manufacturer. Especially when performing brake work.
Best wishes and stay safe.|||Explain to your dad that the ABS system is a sensor and ring attached to the hub - it has no bearing on the actual calipers and brake pads - which are generally the same parts on any specific vehicle whether the vehicle has ABS or not.|||abs systems have a sensor usually located somewhere on the axle or on the spindle /mounting area. usually has a single wire attached to it. as long as you do not damage this or bend it etc. the procedure for changing pads is the same.|||No difference. The calipers themselves don%26#039;t have any ABS components in them.
Changing some wheel discs might affect the wheel speed sensors, but even these are quite simple.|||It doesn%26#039;t look any different. You will see the sensor,but it is inboard from where the pads are.
Getting the piston down on changing Barina brake pads?
Im trying to change my mother in laws 2001 Holden/Opel Barina xc 1.4L Brake pads but im having heaps of trouble, iv tried doing everything but i cant seem to get the piston down, does anyone know how i can do this.. Iv changed brake pads before on all types of cars and never had any trouble except on this car|||are you trying to get the piston apart from the pad?
if so, wedge something like a screwdriver between the old pad and piston then lever em apart.
trying to close the gap?
to bleed the brakes start at the rear left, left front, right back then right front.
if this doesnt work, then the brake slave cylinder could be gone, (theyre known to go in the opel)|||Use a very large %26quot;C%26quot; clamp or vice grips with something between to protect the piston from being damaged.
if so, wedge something like a screwdriver between the old pad and piston then lever em apart.
trying to close the gap?
to bleed the brakes start at the rear left, left front, right back then right front.
if this doesnt work, then the brake slave cylinder could be gone, (theyre known to go in the opel)|||Use a very large %26quot;C%26quot; clamp or vice grips with something between to protect the piston from being damaged.
Changing Brake pads on my 96 Ford explorer sport?
can anyone give me step by step instructions on how to change the brake pads on my 1996 ford explorer sport?|||If you have to ask for step by step instructions on the internet, do you really think you will be able to trust your brakes when you%26#039;re done?
Do yourself a favor. Buy a Chilton%26#039;s or Hayes Maintenance manual at a local auto parts store. It will have detailed instructions with pictures to let you properly change your brake pads.|||The best thing would be to buy a service manual from either Chiltons, Haynes, or your Ford dealer. That way they will have pictures and all the info to do the job. Good luck with it.
Do yourself a favor. Buy a Chilton%26#039;s or Hayes Maintenance manual at a local auto parts store. It will have detailed instructions with pictures to let you properly change your brake pads.|||The best thing would be to buy a service manual from either Chiltons, Haynes, or your Ford dealer. That way they will have pictures and all the info to do the job. Good luck with it.
How much can i expect to pay for changing brake pads?
I am driving a PT cruiser, and recently the brakes started screeching when ever i start driving, but interestingly enough only for the first couple stops, after braking a couple times it goes away.
I am pretty sure i need to get new brake pads at least. But i was wonder how much am i expected to pay?|||If the noise goes away, you could have glazed pads that are squeaking. Some pads glaze over due to hard stopping and slowing from high speeds. For your peace of mind, I suggest you have them inspected, Some shops provide free inspections and will give you an estimate for you to consider. Prices range from $69.00 per axle and go up from there. If rotors and callipers are in good condition, usually under $100.00.|||100 dollars,|||Any where from 40 to 100 plus dollars. If you do not do it your self you will be charged 60 dollars an 1/2 and hour for labor.|||pads are about 20 dollars.depends on which ones....if a shop does it 100 dollars an axel...hope you havent wrecked rotors|||well for pads they run around 60 bucks per axle and if there grinding metal to metal then your going to need to replace your rotors and thats going to cost more about 75 bucks or more for each rotor but if there not grinding you can just get the rotors machined for 10 bucks a peice and i would recamend a brake flush to keep things flowing like they should well i hope i was of some asistance|||starting price is around 100 bucksand up depending on how bad they are... so smart way is to make three calls and ask local shops...something you can do at home cheaper if you learn how.... 30 minute or less for each side about a good hour and a half for all four you can call the parts store and ask how much pads are and new rotors and get a price on aprts but thats just a wild guess at how much one would charge that will vary between shops|||cheap cold pads do squeak as they wear down and become harder. Many manufactures make %26quot;anti squeak%26quot; compounds that go on the back of the pad (it is vibration causing the sound). check how much pad you have left before deciding %26quot;worn out%26quot; is the problem.
Something as simple as just %26quot;pads%26quot; I would go to one of those franchise brake specialist companys...just DO NOT let them up-sell you anything...take th 89.99 deal installed and not a thing more.|||as long as you don%26#039;t need new rotors or calipers Midas advertises new brake pads and labor for $79.95 per axle.
I am pretty sure i need to get new brake pads at least. But i was wonder how much am i expected to pay?|||If the noise goes away, you could have glazed pads that are squeaking. Some pads glaze over due to hard stopping and slowing from high speeds. For your peace of mind, I suggest you have them inspected, Some shops provide free inspections and will give you an estimate for you to consider. Prices range from $69.00 per axle and go up from there. If rotors and callipers are in good condition, usually under $100.00.|||100 dollars,|||Any where from 40 to 100 plus dollars. If you do not do it your self you will be charged 60 dollars an 1/2 and hour for labor.|||pads are about 20 dollars.depends on which ones....if a shop does it 100 dollars an axel...hope you havent wrecked rotors|||well for pads they run around 60 bucks per axle and if there grinding metal to metal then your going to need to replace your rotors and thats going to cost more about 75 bucks or more for each rotor but if there not grinding you can just get the rotors machined for 10 bucks a peice and i would recamend a brake flush to keep things flowing like they should well i hope i was of some asistance|||starting price is around 100 bucksand up depending on how bad they are... so smart way is to make three calls and ask local shops...something you can do at home cheaper if you learn how.... 30 minute or less for each side about a good hour and a half for all four you can call the parts store and ask how much pads are and new rotors and get a price on aprts but thats just a wild guess at how much one would charge that will vary between shops|||cheap cold pads do squeak as they wear down and become harder. Many manufactures make %26quot;anti squeak%26quot; compounds that go on the back of the pad (it is vibration causing the sound). check how much pad you have left before deciding %26quot;worn out%26quot; is the problem.
Something as simple as just %26quot;pads%26quot; I would go to one of those franchise brake specialist companys...just DO NOT let them up-sell you anything...take th 89.99 deal installed and not a thing more.|||as long as you don%26#039;t need new rotors or calipers Midas advertises new brake pads and labor for $79.95 per axle.
Soft brakes after changing brake pads, bleeding, and replacing master cylinder? What else could it be?
2002 Honda Accord LX V6 with ABS brake system. Took the car to midas for a regular brake pad change after squealers were heard. Right after I got my car back, the brake pedal suddenly felt soft, and if I pushed with a little extra force, the pedal hit the floor. So after bleeding the brakes, Midas said it was a leak in the master cylinder and it was coincidental. After a little arguing, I got them to replace the master cylinder at no charge. However, the pedal feels a little better, but it%26#039;s still extremely soft. Again, with a little extra force, I could push the pedal until it almost hits the floor. What else could it be? This has been hell. All I initially went for was a routine brake pad change.|||There is STILL air in the brake system.|||either still air in the lines, or (if you have rear drum brakes) the rear could be out of adjustment. Good Luck|||Take your car back emitidly where you had brakes done and have them bleed and pressure check the system out, this is not right , it is a safety check and should not cost any thing|||Other fault possibilities that are allowing air to get into the system are:
Leaking Lines
Leaking or Faulty Caliper/s
Loose Bleeder Screw/s
Leaking Line Connections at Master Cylinder
Low Reservoir Content
Leaking Line Connections at Rear Wheel
Cylinders or any other point where threaded
fittings enter.
Faulty New or Rebuilt Master Cylinder
Brake Rotor/s Excessive wear.
Incompetent Air Bleeding Procedure.
Leaking Lines
Leaking or Faulty Caliper/s
Loose Bleeder Screw/s
Leaking Line Connections at Master Cylinder
Low Reservoir Content
Leaking Line Connections at Rear Wheel
Cylinders or any other point where threaded
fittings enter.
Faulty New or Rebuilt Master Cylinder
Brake Rotor/s Excessive wear.
Incompetent Air Bleeding Procedure.
Is there any difference between changing conventional brake pads and ABS one?
Is it possible to DIY ABS brake pads change?
Is there any special tools other than the one used for conventional brake pads change?|||The brake pads are the same whether the vehicle has ABS or not. Sometimes the brake rotors might be different, but if you%26#039;re just replacing the pads, there is no difference at all.|||Just follow directions. As the Pads are the same. ABS works off a sensor that sends a signal too the braking computer that the wheel is %26quot;locked up%26quot;.|||genarally no there are no special tools , however every car is different so there could be exceptions to that|||jumpys,
The ABS and the conventional brake system are separate but related. What have I said, %26quot;you don%26#039;t think ABS when you%26#039;re changing brakes.%26quot; Every car I own has ABS, I go to the store and buy brakes shoes/pads and put them in. It doesn%26#039;t affect my brake system.
Is there any special tools other than the one used for conventional brake pads change?|||The brake pads are the same whether the vehicle has ABS or not. Sometimes the brake rotors might be different, but if you%26#039;re just replacing the pads, there is no difference at all.|||Just follow directions. As the Pads are the same. ABS works off a sensor that sends a signal too the braking computer that the wheel is %26quot;locked up%26quot;.|||genarally no there are no special tools , however every car is different so there could be exceptions to that|||jumpys,
The ABS and the conventional brake system are separate but related. What have I said, %26quot;you don%26#039;t think ABS when you%26#039;re changing brakes.%26quot; Every car I own has ABS, I go to the store and buy brakes shoes/pads and put them in. It doesn%26#039;t affect my brake system.
How much would changing brake pads and brake lines cost?
Any quick estimate on what it would cost me? I%26#039;m purchasing a 1989 Celica and the owner said it needed new brake pads and brake lines.|||Pads should be relatively inexpensive, $30 max (for economy grade) and I would replace rotors too, about $25 a piece. (for DOMESTIC cars; from your autoparts store, not a brake shop) Labor is probably going to be little over an hour.
Brake lines on the other hand are custom for every car and usually considered a %26quot;straight time%26quot; job, meaning that if the mechanic runs into problems and it takes 4 hours to do, you%26#039;re going to pay 4 hours labor. Don%26#039;t forget bleeding air from brake lines takes time too. I would suggest getting a quote from a shop before you buy it.
Murphy%26#039;s law says that if you fix just one brake line today, the others will start leaking next week. I recommend changing all your lines at once.
Personally, unless you%26#039;re totally in love with that car, or it%26#039;s real cheap, stay away from it. It%26#039;s gonna end up costing you a pile of $$.
Brake lines on the other hand are custom for every car and usually considered a %26quot;straight time%26quot; job, meaning that if the mechanic runs into problems and it takes 4 hours to do, you%26#039;re going to pay 4 hours labor. Don%26#039;t forget bleeding air from brake lines takes time too. I would suggest getting a quote from a shop before you buy it.
Murphy%26#039;s law says that if you fix just one brake line today, the others will start leaking next week. I recommend changing all your lines at once.
Personally, unless you%26#039;re totally in love with that car, or it%26#039;s real cheap, stay away from it. It%26#039;s gonna end up costing you a pile of $$.
Is it worth changing your own brake pads? How difficult is it.?
I have never done it before, but i see that i can save a significant amount of money if i do it myself. There are many resources on the web showing %26quot;how-to%26quot; change brake pads. How likely is it that it will be done wrong, and cause a dangerous situation.
My background: I am a technical person who repairs computers, printers, copiers, and fax machines. I have a Nissan Titan.|||Good front pads cost $45 and the total cost to install them is $125 for both parts and labor full warranty. In my opinion, it%26#039;s not worth investing in all the equipment you need to safely do the job to save the $80.|||Is the cost of an hours labour roughly 30 quid worth dying or killing someone over. Think about it your call!|||Ok, you%26#039;re a techie, can I repair my own fax or copier for myself, cause I don%26#039;t like paying your labour rates either. What do you know about ABS, sensors, rotors, proportioning valves, etc, case closed good luck|||You have a good background of taking things apart and putting them back together again so I don%26#039;t think you%26#039;ll have any problems. Just follow the instructions and you%26#039;ll be just fine. I used to work on copiers and brake pads are a lot easier. If your rotors need turning or replacing, make sure you have the right tools especially a torque wrench to seat the bearings correctly. Good luck.|||It%26#039;s not difficult to change brake pads yourself. In addition to the tire iron and car jack in your trunk, you need a wrench (size varies from model to model) and big C-clamp.
My advice: Buy a repair manual for your make/model and follow the instructions. When you%26#039;re finished you will notice that the brake pedal goes all the way down to the bottom plate. Start the car and pump the brake pedal until you feel firm pressure again. Then go for a short test drive. After the test drive retighten the lugs.
The most common mistake is to switch inner with outer brake pads. You will notice the mistake immediately because the brake pedal stays close to the bottom plate.|||you can its actually quite simple....the hardest part is compressing the piston to put the new pads in. they have a tool for it similar to a C-clamp also don%26#039;t let the caliper hang from the brake line when working on them if you do this the line can break and now you need a to bleed the whole system and a new line. rest the caliper on a box or tie it up with a rope to keep tension off the line.|||Piece of CAKE!!! You%26#039;ll need an hydraulic jack, jack stands, a few hand tools, several screwdrivers (to retract the caliper pistons), a can or two of brake cleaner, and genuine Toyota parts. If you catch it soon enough, you won%26#039;t even need the rotors turned or replaced. Get a Haynes manual for details. You can do every bit a good job as a brake shop can!! The cool thing about the Toyota pads is that they come ina kit that includes the return springs and new hardware, so there is no second-guessing. YOU CAN DO IT!!!!|||If you have a friend that knows how to do the job have him come over and help you and you watch how it%26#039;s done and the next time you will be able to do it, buy your friend a case of beer when done and if your lucky he will give you a few.
My background: I am a technical person who repairs computers, printers, copiers, and fax machines. I have a Nissan Titan.|||Good front pads cost $45 and the total cost to install them is $125 for both parts and labor full warranty. In my opinion, it%26#039;s not worth investing in all the equipment you need to safely do the job to save the $80.|||Is the cost of an hours labour roughly 30 quid worth dying or killing someone over. Think about it your call!|||Ok, you%26#039;re a techie, can I repair my own fax or copier for myself, cause I don%26#039;t like paying your labour rates either. What do you know about ABS, sensors, rotors, proportioning valves, etc, case closed good luck|||You have a good background of taking things apart and putting them back together again so I don%26#039;t think you%26#039;ll have any problems. Just follow the instructions and you%26#039;ll be just fine. I used to work on copiers and brake pads are a lot easier. If your rotors need turning or replacing, make sure you have the right tools especially a torque wrench to seat the bearings correctly. Good luck.|||It%26#039;s not difficult to change brake pads yourself. In addition to the tire iron and car jack in your trunk, you need a wrench (size varies from model to model) and big C-clamp.
My advice: Buy a repair manual for your make/model and follow the instructions. When you%26#039;re finished you will notice that the brake pedal goes all the way down to the bottom plate. Start the car and pump the brake pedal until you feel firm pressure again. Then go for a short test drive. After the test drive retighten the lugs.
The most common mistake is to switch inner with outer brake pads. You will notice the mistake immediately because the brake pedal stays close to the bottom plate.|||you can its actually quite simple....the hardest part is compressing the piston to put the new pads in. they have a tool for it similar to a C-clamp also don%26#039;t let the caliper hang from the brake line when working on them if you do this the line can break and now you need a to bleed the whole system and a new line. rest the caliper on a box or tie it up with a rope to keep tension off the line.|||Piece of CAKE!!! You%26#039;ll need an hydraulic jack, jack stands, a few hand tools, several screwdrivers (to retract the caliper pistons), a can or two of brake cleaner, and genuine Toyota parts. If you catch it soon enough, you won%26#039;t even need the rotors turned or replaced. Get a Haynes manual for details. You can do every bit a good job as a brake shop can!! The cool thing about the Toyota pads is that they come ina kit that includes the return springs and new hardware, so there is no second-guessing. YOU CAN DO IT!!!!|||If you have a friend that knows how to do the job have him come over and help you and you watch how it%26#039;s done and the next time you will be able to do it, buy your friend a case of beer when done and if your lucky he will give you a few.
Do you have to bleed the brake lines when changing brake pads on ABS models??
This is on a 99 GMC sierra 2500. I%26#039;ve changed brake pads before but not on one with ABS. It says to bleed the lines when depressing the caliper piston do I have to????
Thanks.|||no you are going to be ok you dont have to bleed the system unless you open the system up to replace a caliper or brake hose
Thanks.|||no you are going to be ok you dont have to bleed the system unless you open the system up to replace a caliper or brake hose
After changing brake pads, the car brakes seem to be activated all the time?
I changed front and rear disc brake pads on my 1998 GMC jimmy today. I took the car out for a spin, and it stops fine. The problem is that the brakes seem to be engaging the calipers all of the time, and the enging really has to work to keep the car moving. What have I done wrong?|||Just as a guess I would say that one of the brake calipers is not releasing and causing the brakes to bind. Did the calipers seem to press back into place easily? Are you sure you got all of the parts back in place correctly? Good luck.|||check the emerg. brake may be it needs to be loosened off
|||You may have to adjust the emergency brake cable on your jimmy, research it online, it%26#039;s pretty easy. Did you bleed them?|||You need to go back and get them readjusted|||You have either installed the wrong pads so as the calipers cannot float as the pads are too wide. You have installed the calipers without proper lubrication and the calipers are stuck, thus not able to fully release the brakes. You have adjusted the park brake improperly so as to have it on all the time. I suggest you drive it and feel all 4 wheels to see which one is getting hot and these are where you have done something wrong. You can usually smell the brakes that are burning hot. Then take them apart and check for interference fits and/or binding.|||the mecanic that did the job did not bleed the brakes right and there is air on the brake lines that is why you are having problems|||There could be rust on the calliper slides that is keeping them from opening up all the way. Or, if you installed the pads with a shim on the outside of the pad. (a thin piece of metal) it may be causing the pads to stay in contact with the rotors.|||Jack the car up and spin the wheels by hand to see which one is dragging.
If it is a front, you may have a stuck caliper.
If it is a rear, the emergengy brake cable may need to be backed off.|||Valente G got it right. You did not bleed your brakes or did not do it properly|||Check your parking brake, also check the fluid reservoir for too much brake fluid. Too much fluid puts pressure on the pads. Someone else already said to make sure the pads are the right ones,and installed right.
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|||You may have to adjust the emergency brake cable on your jimmy, research it online, it%26#039;s pretty easy. Did you bleed them?|||You need to go back and get them readjusted|||You have either installed the wrong pads so as the calipers cannot float as the pads are too wide. You have installed the calipers without proper lubrication and the calipers are stuck, thus not able to fully release the brakes. You have adjusted the park brake improperly so as to have it on all the time. I suggest you drive it and feel all 4 wheels to see which one is getting hot and these are where you have done something wrong. You can usually smell the brakes that are burning hot. Then take them apart and check for interference fits and/or binding.|||the mecanic that did the job did not bleed the brakes right and there is air on the brake lines that is why you are having problems|||There could be rust on the calliper slides that is keeping them from opening up all the way. Or, if you installed the pads with a shim on the outside of the pad. (a thin piece of metal) it may be causing the pads to stay in contact with the rotors.|||Jack the car up and spin the wheels by hand to see which one is dragging.
If it is a front, you may have a stuck caliper.
If it is a rear, the emergengy brake cable may need to be backed off.|||Valente G got it right. You did not bleed your brakes or did not do it properly|||Check your parking brake, also check the fluid reservoir for too much brake fluid. Too much fluid puts pressure on the pads. Someone else already said to make sure the pads are the right ones,and installed right.
Is there anything special you have to do when changing volkswagen brake pads?
I%26#039;m about to change pads on my Jetta and could not get the C-clamp to push back the brake cylinder, do you need a special tool or anything?|||you should be able to borrow a screw type caliper piston compressor from auto zone or some other parts store. you will need to use this since the piston actually screws in. you should not damage any abs items for just compressing the piston. I do rear brakes on vw%26#039;s about 3 times a week and haven%26#039;t damaged a thing . good luck|||yes, and more than that. Enjoy replacing your ABS Brake pressure distribution valve assy. Should cost right around a 1,000 dollars.
You don%26#039;t have any idea what you are doing, do you?
get a shop to do this, brakes are not DIY for beginners, you need to have some formal training.
ASE Cert Auto Tech. 92 GTI16V 2.0L|||Have you taken the calipers off yet? You don%26#039;t need the C clamp for that. If you don%26#039;t have a repair manual, and you have never done this before, GET ONE from the library. This is the brakes we is talking about. Your reason for stopping.
The caliper will slide off when you unbolt it. When you see the difference in the pad between the new and old you will understand why the piston has to be pushed back in order to get the caliper with the new pads on.
You want the C clamp that is used in metal work, not in woodwork. The metal clamps have a leverage rod so you can put some twisting force to the screw.
You don%26#039;t have any idea what you are doing, do you?
get a shop to do this, brakes are not DIY for beginners, you need to have some formal training.
ASE Cert Auto Tech. 92 GTI16V 2.0L|||Have you taken the calipers off yet? You don%26#039;t need the C clamp for that. If you don%26#039;t have a repair manual, and you have never done this before, GET ONE from the library. This is the brakes we is talking about. Your reason for stopping.
The caliper will slide off when you unbolt it. When you see the difference in the pad between the new and old you will understand why the piston has to be pushed back in order to get the caliper with the new pads on.
You want the C clamp that is used in metal work, not in woodwork. The metal clamps have a leverage rod so you can put some twisting force to the screw.
Changing brake pads on HHR and turning rotors?
I have a 2006 Chevrolet HHR and I need to change the brake pads soon. I changed out the rotors for cross drilled and slotted rotors. Do I need to turn the rotors? Also, how do you change the brake pads? Are there caliper bolts that need to be unscewed?|||For sure if you change the pads you should always change or resurface the rotors , otherwise your waisting your time and your brakes will never work properly causing more damage to the other brake components on the vehicle too. Not sure about if they%26#039;ve a special hex etc type of mounting screw but probably they do.
Not sure if you know this or not but try to remember when doing this type of work don%26#039;t ever get grease or brake fluid on any pads or rotors bec grease or oil or brake fluids can and will cause severe contaminates and the brakes will burn causing the severe headaches.Make sure you wipe the rotors off with a smooth clean cloth before installing the new rotors or the callipers etc.
Not sure if you know this or not but try to remember when doing this type of work don%26#039;t ever get grease or brake fluid on any pads or rotors bec grease or oil or brake fluids can and will cause severe contaminates and the brakes will burn causing the severe headaches.Make sure you wipe the rotors off with a smooth clean cloth before installing the new rotors or the callipers etc.
How do you release the pressure in the brake lines for changing brake pads?
I%26#039;m changing the brake pads on my car, but I need to release the brake pressure to get them off. How do I do this?|||As soon as the car is turned off there is no pressure in the brake system. The easiest way to compress the caliper pistons back to their full seated position is with a carpenters sliding C-clamp. They%26#039;re avalable at wood working, hardware stores and Sears.
Some rear calipers have indents or notches in two places around the faces of the piston. In that case you%26#039;ll need a hardened inexpensive 3/8 square tool from an auto parts store. It fits a short socket extension and slides inside the notches. Slowely screw clockwide the piston back inside the rear calipers.
If your rear caliper pistons have no notches simply squeeze them back using the sliding bar C- clamp.|||remove cap on master take a screwdriver and pry between pad it Will go by not hard... you can take them off and push them back with a big c- clamp but ive always found a screwdriver works faster been doing it that way for a few 1000 cars never had any problems when i started back in the 70%26#039;s not hard and much cheaper to do it your self here Will help give you a ideal...any ways i pry the caliber back some and then behind the back side on th epad and it will push the piston back so you can get it off sometime you can push it all the way if not use a big c-clamp or a big pair of slip pliers|||You dont let air out, instead you push the fluid/compression back. You can use a C-Clamp (mini vice basically) and compress the cylinder away and put the brake pads in, then take the c clamp off.
Make sure you pump your brakes before driving away to make sure a tight pedal.
|||Loosen the bleeder screw slightly and if you don%26#039;t have the proper push tool just use channel locks. Just remember to tighten the bleeder again.|||I use a large C clamp to compress the brake cylinder...Use a piece of flat wood so you dont nick the cylinder....
Some rear calipers have indents or notches in two places around the faces of the piston. In that case you%26#039;ll need a hardened inexpensive 3/8 square tool from an auto parts store. It fits a short socket extension and slides inside the notches. Slowely screw clockwide the piston back inside the rear calipers.
If your rear caliper pistons have no notches simply squeeze them back using the sliding bar C- clamp.|||remove cap on master take a screwdriver and pry between pad it Will go by not hard... you can take them off and push them back with a big c- clamp but ive always found a screwdriver works faster been doing it that way for a few 1000 cars never had any problems when i started back in the 70%26#039;s not hard and much cheaper to do it your self here Will help give you a ideal...any ways i pry the caliber back some and then behind the back side on th epad and it will push the piston back so you can get it off sometime you can push it all the way if not use a big c-clamp or a big pair of slip pliers|||You dont let air out, instead you push the fluid/compression back. You can use a C-Clamp (mini vice basically) and compress the cylinder away and put the brake pads in, then take the c clamp off.
Make sure you pump your brakes before driving away to make sure a tight pedal.
|||Loosen the bleeder screw slightly and if you don%26#039;t have the proper push tool just use channel locks. Just remember to tighten the bleeder again.|||I use a large C clamp to compress the brake cylinder...Use a piece of flat wood so you dont nick the cylinder....
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