I am quite sure that I need to increase the space for the caliper opening or centralize it. I see two bolts that seem to control this. See photo I took:
http://www.onboardstats.com/devphoto/bra鈥?/a>
At first I thought I need to turn these bolts. But I think maybe when I depressed the hollow piston in the middle maybe this area was supposed to move accordingly. Maybe it seized up? Before depressing the piston I didn't know I was supposed to pop the top off the master cylinder before I depressed the piston. So maybe I caused pressure/fluid/air problems.
Fitting caliper over rotor after changing brake pads.?
i think i might see your problem. take something and tap those sleeves back in, where the bolts goes through. by them sticking out, the caliper wont go back on.
Fitting caliper over rotor after changing brake pads.?
I actually ended up using a c-clamp to press the sleeves (if that is what you call them) back in farther. So in the end, I c-clamped twice. Once for the piston and once for the sleeves.
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so, they fit on , did they?
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No those bolts I dont think %26quot;adjust%26quot; anything. Are you sure you compressed piston enough. Open bleeder valve , compress and close valve.
You need to disconnect the caliper from the caliper bracket (it appears you would remove the bolts in question to do so). Install the caliper bracket back on the knuckle. Install the pads into the caliper bracket. Check one more time to make sure the pistons are depressed to flush with the caliper. And you should be able to fit the caliper back on.
It is much easier to fit the caliper over the rotor/pads than it is the caliper/pads over the rotor.
only two things i can think of that will cause this either the piston is not push in all the way or the pads are wrong
those bolts only hold the caliper to the wheel assembly they have that rubber over a pin the purpose of this is to let the assembly slide inward as the pads get smaller in diameter as they are used....... i know what you are talking about you have to press the piston completly in to get it to drop down over the pads.. some pistons are corrowded on the end and will not seat again.. if this is the case you have to replace the caliper.. but take it off the vechiecle disconnect the brake fluid line and place it on the ground.. with a piece of pipe that is inch and a half.. place on the piston and hit the pipe with a large hammer.. this usually seats the piston back so you can have it slide over the pads ok..
The caliper is in two halves one of which slides on the two bolts you reference. They do close up as the pads wear. Before compressing the piston, take a large screwdriver or pry bar and simply pry the two halves apart. The sliding will be obvious when you start prying. Trying to adjust the bolts will accomplish nothing. lubricate the two bolts with high temp brake crease before prying them apart.
You must 1st compress the piston. Slide the old pad back in place so it's up against the piston. Use a large %26quot;C%26quot; clamp %26amp; turn in until the piston is flush with the housing. DO NOT open the bleeder.
The bolts your are referring to are the guides for the caliper. Once the brakes are applies the bracket needs to slid in order to have even pressure on the outboard brake pad. Make sure they slide easily.
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You should remove the cap of the master cylinder to keep lines from being pressurized. Use one of the old brake pads across the caliper piston when you compress it rather than running the c-clamp all the way down inside the piston cup. It is likely that by the time you have removed the c-clamp, the piston is starting to move out. Consider having the rotors turned.
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